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Conversational Threads

Adrian Jules Custom Clothier Rochester

scrubble4 | Posted in General Discussion on

Hi;  Kathleen Fasanella had this site on her blog.  I thought folks here may be interested for a couple of reasons:

In visiting this fine clothier (men’s’s suits) you get to see some of the commercial machines in use.  As we have discussed previously on other threads, these machines are one of the reasons custom clothes and home sewing machine clothes look different.  I really got that seeing these professional machines at work

I also thought the different bits on pressing were interesting including seeing a lady use her dauber (I hope I have spelled it correctly).

There is also a lot of hand sewing.  Hope you enjoy if you have a peek. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1L0PZvSDuA

Scrubble4

Replies

  1. Ralphetta | | #1

    That was very interesting. Thank you for telling us about it.

    1. scrubble4 | | #2

      Ralphetta:  This one is also interesting, as it looks to me the tailor draws the pattern shapes right onto the fabric.  Scrubble4

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFdixgLTkeM&NR=1

      1. Ralphetta | | #3

        $120!!!! The guy drawing on the fabric makes me feel totally incompetent.

        1. scrubble4 | | #4

          Ralphetta:  He said it took him 10 years to learn, and that is all he does every day.  You would be a whiz at it if you could dedicate your day to just this one thing.  However, I did appreciate him saying it took 10 years.  Made me feel just somewhere a long way behind him but still on the learning curve. 

          Scrubble4

          1. Josefly | | #5

            I just got around to watching these videos. Thank you so much for the link. It was fascinating to see the industrial equipment, and how the tailors make it look so easy! We know it's not, though. Another thing I hadn't really thought about was all the "chest building" they do to a custom-made jacket. No wonder men look so good in their suits. I know women's well made jackets are also "built", and it makes a great difference in how the garment makes the wearer look. But where is info available on how to customize those padding pieces to suit an individual's body?

          2. dollmarm | | #6

             

            Great Videos !!My hubby has several suits w/extra pants and many shirts made by Raja.  The best fit of clothes ever.  They do keep your measurments and if they change you just them know and when you need anything new they have it for when you come in and they do mail anywhere to you if you are already an established customer.  We lived overseas for many years and was told about these places and several found Rajas to the best.  SO when my husband went there he went in and they measured and made a sample for him to try - and with a week all was completed. When we lived in India - some would come to your home and sit on the floor with their little machines and make whatever you want right there. They would even bring swatches and you chose the color and etc.. right there in your home. They would take the necessary measurements.  Too they take this all back their place, make whatever you want and bring it back in a couple of days or w/in that week.  I had many of the Sari's made and other clothing of that area.  I love my Chrismas one the best. I still have one my daughter wore when she was 10 and she is now 26.  I didn't need to sew there - I worked on other crafts and enjoyed their wares. IT was amazing  to watch them and see what they designed.   :~) 

          3. scrubble4 | | #8

            dollmarm:  "When we lived in India - some would come to your home and sit on the floor with their little machines and make whatever you want right there"

            WoW!  You have had some great experiences with tailors.  Their knowledge is really impressive.  I think with the internet becoming a source of bespoke clothing, they are coming into their own time.  Thanks for telling us about this.  Scrubble4

          4. dollmarm | | #9

            Too bad I didn't pay as close attention as I should have I could sure use them now! I see the whole picture in minds eye what I wanna' do - at  times I can even draw it out but it is that step in-between to the actual outfit that stumps me.  I am trying to get that behind me.  I would really love a class but not sure what.  I was given some names this past week of  one lady that makes patterns and I would love her to teach me and 2 others who make costumes - wow - oops gotta' run hubby called and coming in early and I have to finish up in the kitchen :~)

            Edited 3/18/2008 12:24 am ET by dollmarm

          5. GailAnn | | #11

            Love the way you talk about your life!  So few of us today mention "enjoying' our lives, just as they are at this moment.  Or even enjoying them just as they were at that moment in time at some time in the past.

            Sometimes I think we are all so busy working NOW and planning to be happy LATER.  I don't sense this in you at all.  It is a rare traite.  Gail

          6. dollmarm | | #13

            Thank you, thank you & thanks - those days seem like a life-ago ! My children were so little when we traveled and we were on the go with my husband and taught them using the Calvert HomeStudy Curriculum.   IT was great!  We were in Frankfurt Germany for the 1st tour and our daughter had such an adjustment from a neighborhood kindergarten to the DOD 1st grade.  There were so many children in the 1st and her dad traveled so much.  SO to make a very long story, research and decision - we chose to have her taught at home with a homestudy course.  With this course - we sent certain papers t& test to a grading teacher provided by that school in Baltimore, Maryland and we hit the road with him.  The site, sound and smells were great.  We went to East Berlin by taking the Duty Train in and stayed in a Bread& Breakfast.  The man was disabled, so he, his wife opened up their home to guest.  It was great!!!  My husband would go to wk' and the kids and I would ride the buses and learn about the area we were in.  Our families would come over where-ever we were and when my husband would have to go out - most of the time we all went w/ him and we traveled around the day and met up for dinner.   We toured a lot while living in Germany and the best was Rome and Coliseum was the best !   The history there is awesome!  We were very fortunate I was a southern gal from Ga and had not traveled so I was in awe of so so much. Our daughter was getting into her teen years and my husband felt it best we settle for a while, but our son, Autism had got worse so we decided to stay in the states. I Miss the sites but not the flights !!!   They were ruff for me for I get air-sick and even when I took stuff - it was still ruff.  India was the greatest for shopping - oh too much shopping.  When ever any would come in they would send them to me and I would take them into the local market to get their DMC floss and Aida cloth.   I have buckets of every color of the floss and the cloth and the fabric was so so beautiful.   My husband would even get an email of what some ones wife wanted and I would go out and buy and send it to them.   Now the worst part was I got Malaria and that was horrible- I lost 15lbs in one week. It took me quite a while to gain back from that.   My husband had to have knee surgery and we were sent into Singapore instead of back to states and we had to stay a month for his care and I was finally able to gain all my strength.  That was a great vacation.  India was a very hard country esp. for a woman, but we had to have servants and my husband is 6ft and told them I (me) wasn't happy then he was not and they would lose their jobs.  You could hire a housefull for $100.00 - wow to have that now !!!  Thanks again for your kind words - much needed at times.   Our life is so so different now.  My husband retired but went back to work w/gov't and still travels.   I am pretty much a home person and loving my house here-trying to get it more as a home.  We have lots to wk' on.  The house is an 8sided house and we have too many windows that need replacing along with 3 doors too.   It was originally built in 1976 and has it's original windows&doors.  We have not found what we want yet.  There are still the old think drapes and etc.. - slowly replacing.  But will get the better insulated windows.  I have some fabric for the sheers once we put new windows in and then will decide on the curtains.  I am hoping to make them and the window boxes above to display plates of places we have been. 

            Yes we are too buys and do forget - seeing those videos and brought some back to mind.  I love to watch parts of the travel on TV and see the sight of where we have been.   Again thanks, we do forget our many blessing along the way, :~)  It has been hard settling;we do not live near family and there are so many coming and going in our area we live near Quantico Marine Base.  Too it seems that too many do not get to know those w/ special needs children esp, when they are of the adult age.  Most of the women my age bracket are more free and their children are grown and gone.  Our son will always be with us as long as the LORD keeps him alive.  I needed to be reminded of what blessing I have had and am receiving as I interact more w/others - :~) 

          7. scrubble4 | | #14

            dollmarm:  You are a treat.  I feel like I have just been on a travelog reading your post.  You have lived, not just travelled.  Way to Go!  It seems everywhere you went you saw and learned as much as you could.  You must have fabulous memories as well as momentos.  Thanks so much for sharing.  Whenever something else tweaks a memory, please keep sharing them. 

            Scrubble4

          8. dollmarm | | #18

            Thank you - never been called a treat before I accept it ! :~) I hadn't thought of those India days in a quite a while - when I saw the video on the tailors it struck a host of memories.  I was always the one that was never going to leave home and if I did I was only gona live down the street and have 9 wonderful children !  hahahahaaa !   WOW - what love does to you ! We did not have 9.  After the birth of our first daughter - I thought this is so so easy why not have many and we stopped at 2 !   We had hoped to get to China and adopt a little girl but we were sent to India instead.   There were too many hoops and our son had already been diagnosed in Germany with Autism so we felt best not to have any more children.   I do have a great collection - hubby would say too much, but who's asking him - hahahahahaaa  :~)  He says I need to open a store for show and tell and sell what ask for.  :~)  Take care for now and will let ya know when a tweak happens.  :~)

          9. scrubble4 | | #7

            Josefly:  "But where is info available on how to customize those padding pieces to suit an individual's body?"

            Good question.  I haven't checked on Kathleen Fasanella's site specifically for this, but her site is one possible choice. I wonder if David Coffin ever did any articles on it?  I know this structured look is not promoted currently, but I think this is a time when we can all wear what makes us look best.  Sometimes a little padding is helpful, and I like the look.  

            I just learned in one of Sandra Betzina's books that putting tape in the seam between the waist and hip helps the pant to keep from falling in if you have a hollow there.  I do as I have a small waist and rather grand thighs.  Such a simple solution which I never thought of on my own. 

            Glad you enjoyed the sites.  I was totally amazed to see the one tailor drawing the pattern right on the material.  Even with his modest statement that it took him 10 years to learn how to be a tailor, I think his skills are really advanced now. 

            Scrubble4 

          10. jjgg | | #12

            A good book on tailoring will give you the information on making the jacket front - the chest piece or "plastrone". I even remember seeing the outline for the area to pad on some commercial patterns."Classic Tailoring Techniques. A construction guide for men's wear"
            by Roberto Cabrera / Patricia Flaherty Meyers.http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Tailoring-Techniques-Construction-Collection/dp/0870054317

            Edited 3/18/2008 3:31 pm ET by jjgg

          11. Josefly | | #16

            I haven't tackled anything like a tailored jacket, so I wouldn't have seen those markings.
            Thank you for the book title and authors, and the amazon link. I've copied your message to myself so I can check it out later. I'm wondering if my library system will have a copy.So much to learn!

          12. jjgg | | #21

            You can also buy pre-made jacket frontshttp://www.bblackandsons.com/store/fronts.htmlthese are for mens jackets, but can be customized (darted) to fit a womans jacket, or you just make your own from hair canvas from the pattern piece.
            Then, the plastrone is added to it. Depending on how hollow or full the area is dictates how much padding to add. This is more significant in womens clothing then mens as we need to adjust for the hollow chest above the bust, some women are more hollow than others (like me!! LOL)

          13. Josefly | | #22

            Thank you again - and again I'm copying to myself! About the hollow - I don't think there's much of one vertically - from shoulder to bust apex, as I'm small-busted. But my shoulders do curve forward, and there's a hollow there between the front of my shoulder and the clavicle. So I think the padding would make me look much better. I always like shoulder pads since my shoulders look so narrow, but those pads sometimes accent the hollow, depending on the garment.

          14. dollmarm | | #29

            Hey Jig and ALL :

            That book sounds great - I copied all the endorsement off, esp love the first one and second where she was stumped with pockets until she read this book - that says a lot for the author to explain that well.   I love this discussion - so so much info to store !   That Tailor teacher sound like my Crochet teacher.   While living in India one to the men that worked w/ my husband, his wife taught Crochet and she kept trying to get me to take a class.  I kept using the excuse of being too busy w/kids and I sewed and did cross-stitch.  Finally she talked me into it and wow was she tuff.  If something didn't look just right she would grab it and pull all the stitches out and atleast show you it should look - she was a perfectionist to say the least!!!!    I made a pink doily that I still have and bought all colors there for my grandmother. I felt so good at my accomplishments that I tackled an afghan and WOW was that a job.   MY mother in law loves emerald green so I made her one for Christmas.  Dee took it apart more times than I cared to remember.  BUT I finally learned how to get those stitches just right.  I rarely do any of it now.  I love my cross stitch and other crafts making more.

            Hey Scubbble4 :  Had another tweak ! :~)   I bought a complete pkg' for making a man suit from a Tailor in India but with all the traveling and raising of the kids and etc... I forget I had it!  I was going through a Rubbermaid bucket of projects yet to do and found it at the bottom - it looks as if I just kept wk'ing on the top of the pile and never explored to the bottom (it is a deep one) I have another deep one that is filled with all colors of the Aida Cloth for Cross Stitching.   I will be that old lady strapped sitting up so to finish my last project !  teheheheehehehehehe  :~)   So now with this book I can look at making this suit for my hubby ! :~)  Thanks for all the info's my dears' :~)   tera

          15. dollmarm | | #30

            Hey I had this posted and then later learned that not all are notified in the all unless asked to be, plus theres no way to put more than one's attention to  - in the box - so here is what I noted to you , sorrie ( u had asked me to share when I had another tweak - heehe)

            ........  this is a part of the note above it - didn't know iffin you got this.  (iffin' you get like me the phone rings, cat needs to go out and the dog needs attention and then .....  we get side tracked and remember oh yeah I was on line with the dryer buzzing, washer finished and the hubby calling to say I am 20 minutes away whats for dinner....  and ....Believe me 'Calgon'  never took me any place I wanted to be.  :~) Our days are never the same yet so much of the same needing our attention - Happy Easter lady,

            Hey Scubbble4 :  Had another tweak ! :~)   I bought a complete pkg' for making a man suit from a Tailor in India but with all the traveling and raising of the kids and etc... I forget I had it!  I was going through a Rubbermaid bucket of projects yet to do and found it at the bottom - it looks as if I just kept wk'ing on the top of the pile and never explored to the bottom (it is a deep one) I have another deep one that is filled with all colors of the Aida Cloth for Cross Stitching.   I will be that old lady strapped sitting up so to finish my last project !  teheheheehehehehehe  :~)   So now with this book I can look at making this suit for my hubby ! :~)  Thanks for all the info's my dears' :~)   tera

          16. scrubble4 | | #31

            dollmarm:  You are a hoot!  What do you mean by a complete package for making a man's suit.  Does it have the hymo and all?  Is it already cut out?  You have treasures you don't even know about.  Keep me posted.  I love your stories.  Scrubble4

          17. dollmarm | | #32

            WELL, I not sure !  Ain't that sad ?  I remember when the Tailor was showing us all the different fabrics and etc...  he stated all included that I would need, even the thread!  BUT their is not as strong.  When my husband had anything tailored by them - he gave them stronger threads he got in from the states - they loved that.  He would ck' to make sure they used it and they would laugh. 

            MY hubby picked out the one he liked and he too was told that all that was in the package that I would need in making him a complete suit.  It is not cut out.  They told him it was more fabric than needed to make sure of enough material. Several of us bought these sets.   I never  heard anyone complain about what they got or lack of.   OF Course we were preparing for a move, so he sealed it up and it went into the bottom of this Rubbermaid bucket.  We had a leave for home and then in getting settled in the next place I forgot I had it.   Now that's a hoot !  sad huh I remember thinking at the time - hubby was crazy I was not gona' make him a suit.  I was much younger too, so as you know that goes out the window - We gals be more daring as you get better with our skills - too bad the ages thing runs in behind us too.    I will be checking it all out and as soon as I do I will let you know,  :~)

          18. scrubble4 | | #33

            Dollmarm:  "I will be checking it all out and as soon as I do I will let you know" 

            So what do you think?  Are you game to give it a try?  I think this long forgotten package is a totally neat thing.  Was it cut to your husband's size then?  Has he changed? 

            Thanks Scrubble4

          19. dollmarm | | #37

            Still wanna' try - just have that to find that day with nothing else to do - right now I am so totally swamped w/ just the normal things of our household and then I have the yearly paperwork for my son and my daughter is expecting her first baby and hubby is literally back and forth from home to wk' to townhouse to finish to sell.  We had cabinets delivered yesterday PTL right in-between the rain.   He quickly them loaded the boxed cabinets,parts and pieces and he took them to the townhouse.   He will get a co-wk'Eyore to help him install them.   Our weather has been so gloomy - I feel we have been transported in the Hundred Acres Woods and Eyore will mosey out soon to greet us all  :~) From what I can remember about the suit package.  The Tailor ask my husband many questions and each package was sized and then he picked the colors he wanted.  Good and bad we did so much traveling and moving that it went to storage (completely sealed and safe) that I had forget about even having it.   Traveling, homeschooling 2 and a hubby who travels more than he is home  kept me quite busy.   In India - you had to have servants so I was able to teach my daughter to sew and take them places educational  interesting with the USO trips and etc...  SO certain intense projects were put aside.  Plus there were certain days that companies put out seconds that didn't make the cuts to the states and there were street sales -  One company was Bloomingdales and they still looked perfect for so so so so cheap !!!! Many of the high end named brand Companies  are made overseas and any hint of a flaw is sold to the locals.   These were very high end companies, yet the street prices were very low for the locals to be to able to buy.   I would wear my Salwar Kameez and put my hair up and check out the sales.  Our daughter would wear hers and this was part of her education for the day - there was math history and you name in our field trips. I do promise you that as soon as I get to that project I will let you know !!  I hope to take a look at all in the package this weekend for I have re-sorting to do and go through fabric as I am making a new baby quit top with one I used her when she was a baby. Oh hubby's size has gone up and down but pretty much not too much change.   He only made one size adjustment with that tailor.  He says if he ever gets another chance he would  to go back and get more casual clothing made.  He had to have many suits at one time and now doesn't need to wear them as much.  (still looks good in them) Take care and enjoy sewing and sharing all the good tips that you do !  :~)

          20. scrubble4 | | #38

            Dollmarm:  Whew!  What a busy life.  I don't expect anything from you that will add to the intensity of your schedule.  Still I get a vicarious thrill out of reading about your life.  Take care and let me know only when you are once again breathing.  Scrubble4

          21. dollmarm | | #39

            I laughed out loud w/ you response.  I get those great snipets of beathe to go on.  There is a reason, a purpose and a plan in the midst of madness.  Some days we see it and those others we have to Trust HE who made to guide us through even when we can see with these earthly eyes.  Our Spirit sours as we trust and keep on keeping on.   :~) I so enjoy the moments I can grab and sit and yack - then its off again.  I have to take time to hear and  sharing with and receiving new insights so to muddle through some of the tuffest of those task we wish not for! So glad you enjoy my words - I so enjoy yours and many others as well.  Our lives all so different and some so much alike it is nice to see as we all go through our days of highs and lows and help encourage another.  And to gain some insigtht has been a blessing as well.  AS we read different ones ideas, thoughts and insights it sparks something with our creative soul - hummm....  I wanna' try that on my next project so ......  Thanks to you  and  all the rest,  :~) (will get back with you on the package)

          22. dollmarm | | #40

            Otay lady here goes ......  I opened up the package (it needs to be re-packaged,plastic has a slight rip) Remember I told you my hubby bought me a complete package for making him a suit?Well  -  OH wow it is 2 !  (yikes I haven't even made one) I made him a robe and silly measured me him while he was sleeping and thought I added enough length and it was still too short !  He is 6ft.  We were newlyweds and we both enjoyed wearing it - he eventually gave it to me.  I saved some of that fabric Anyway, Fabric is  - 1.  SUPERFINE 100% WOOL CASHMERE & KID MOHAIR - made in England      (it is a lt.black/grey color and I have 3.2 meters 2. FINEST TWILL SILKY with KID MOHAIR  - made in England      (it is black and I have 3.2 meters.  There is also 5meters of white cotton fabric and along with 2 kits of stuff.  I will describe to the best that I can and we will see what I have here.  ( there is no explanation at all with this kit !! )  which I am going to have to take this to a fabric shop and or a tailor to get better knowledge to know what I have)

            Each small kit has interfacing and shoulder pieces, silk lining fabric, 2 different really stiff fabrics - one is a wide long piece and the other is a large square size, plus there a beige cotton & black cotton - (material for pockets - I think) then that waist gripper for the pants. Along with pants zipper and buttons for both pants and jacket.  Whew -

            If I remember correctly there was to be better explanations each labeled. hummmmm......... OH well I shall enjoy checking out what it all is.  The fabric is so soft and so nice looking.  It does bring back memories as I look at it.  My husband picked it out and bought it while several of us ladies went on to do other shopping.  Does my explanations help any?  I have made me jackets but they were simple.  I think I might need to work with 'lesser' fabric before I tackle this nice fabric and work out all the kinks so to speak. I know I will.  I will need a very fine detailed book with lots of pictures and etc.. for this to be a sucess.     Hubby is  in-between sizes & still needs to lose a little more weight.  So this will be a later project.  I have my new grandbaby's cross-stitch to finish and some mending of my daughters baby things to get ready for this neat ones arrival in 2 months.  :~) So whatcha' think ?  H e l p   :~/  

             

          23. scrubble4 | | #41

            Dollmarm:  I think AMAZING! 

            Is the fabric cut or is it in its original length?  I would be soooooo tempted to make myself a lovely winter coat out of the cashmere and mohair.  Lining and all included right there. 

            I also agree, I think I would try a summer weight suit even out of rayon or cotton to get the hang of it before working on these exquisite fabrics.  You might even try a summer blazer and a pair of tailored shorts to gain your experience with something he would wear a lot.  Not knowing his haberdashery ways, I boldly make this suggestion.

            What a treasure trove you had buried away.  I love how the past gives us presents in the present in so many ways.  However, in my experience they are seldom quite so tangible. 

            Keep me updated.  I love your stories and this will be like a journal.  Scrubbler4

          24. dollmarm | | #42

            Thanks you so much fro your support first and foremost !!(taking a breather from paperwork)

            ALL the fabric is all in its original length.  MY hubby lacks for nothing in the clothing dept..  He had all those suits made many years ago and they are still in pristine top-notch condition !Plus he order clothing from Duluth - ever heard of it? He also traveled into some really neat countries and bought he and I both really nice coats that are lightweight but very warm.  I reminded him of this fabric and he said he did remember but wanted me to use other material first.  He stated I should take a special class.  I sorta agree.  Right now I have so much going on with our son, grandbaby coming very soon, was starting some spring cleaning to pack up some winter items and then the spring hid its head.  Our AC was going out and it was 85 degrees inside so we spent alot of time downstairs and then now that the AC man has been here - temps dropped to 39.  It is suppose to climb today to the high 50's and then possible 70's by the weekend. After we sell the townhouse we will have to replace the AC unit - it is over 20yrs. old.Then there is the windows and doors that will be next.  I can not wait to get the carpet up ! I never thought of my life being that interesting - I just lived it as we traveled and wrote letters about our travels with the kids.   It is amazing how much you forget until you walk back down memory lane.  It seems like a life ago and I was someone else.  As I my life here is a world of difference.   Our daughter was once shunned when we moved back into the states in a country town.  She was told she was too wordly.  She and I both were crushed.  My mom (mother-in-law) stated they experience this when my husbands sister went to a school in CA after being overseas.  We never really fit in and eventually moved.  My hubby loved the land we had but the people were so different & esp. the women.  You do learn some interesting things about some interesting people. I know I do have some great fabric and will not use it until I feel great about undertaking such.  PLUS we might move closer south so that fabric for a suit might be too much.  He also told me to use it.  I have no plans for it right now.  It was fun to open it and will show it to a tailor or one who makes mens suits and get more insight.  It is awesome task that can not be taken lightly.  I have sewn since I was a little girl and for years in high school made all my clothing except for undies and even won contest, but still do not feel enough for this task right now.  I wanted to go to a college for fashion design and even now still draw some of them for me.  My dad would not allow me to do so, so I went into medicine and then met my hunny at a Christian Skating Rink.  I need to get other project completed and really feel good about this.  Someday soon and I promise you will be a part of the excitement too !!!! I have to still take 2 pants I bought at Goodwill for $1.00 each to help with those jackets I took a part to make those pants/capri's  (wow that's mouth full) However I am a bit overwhelmed at the moment you might say.   There's so many changes and this is quite hard on our son (which none can be helped) that many of times I have to step back to allow him to become ok.  We are all very curious for when the new baby comes; plus my hubby has some traveling to do.  This will be good for it is just he and I and we do really fun things out for day and do not have to be back by certain time to have dinner and etc.. Right now he just wants to be alone so at times we give him the space needed and other times we have no choice but to push for him not to totally withdraw.  There is a fine line we walk with this.  Even with so much known - there is so so much unknown. We just pray and go by faith we are doing the best we can.  OH my son loves string - got some very funny stories I can share later on that.  Must run, time is running away and I have to get back to the paperwork, enjoyed the time I have here with and others, (sorrie to be so lengthy) Sincere thanks and enjoy where-ever and whatever you do to the fullest,  :~) 

             

          25. scrubble4 | | #43

            Dollmarm:  You are a treat.  Thanks for sharing and I wish you Godspeed with your current undertakings and challenges.  Whenever you have a minute to share, I am here to vicariously walk in your shoes.  Scrubble4

          26. dollmarm | | #45

            Thanks this has is a blessing break for my day to be able to learn & share all sort of information.  You never know till you open your mouth or shall I say peck those keys what you can learn from others and even yourself.  While living overseas I met a great lady who is now one is my dearest kindred friend.  She helped me get a better handle on life.  She and her husband are missionaries and they raised their 2children on such little means, but were rich in so much.  This lady came from money and a lot and she gave up a lot.  But she has always had the best attitude and when my attitude starts sporting a 'tude - I email her and we share.  They are now in the states - her hubby had an eye complications and it is a miracle he can now see better than before.  The Dr. had thought he was going to have to have a cornea transplant and they tired a new lens that the Dr. had to irritate the eye itself and it heals around it and sometimes it works and sometimes not.  The first time it did not, but he was still positive and greatly to have the one eye.  The Dr. tried again and it has been a great success.  They will be able to go back to their Island soon ! I have never met anyone like them.  They are a true blessing.  I went to her when I had to finally deal with my own childhood and she treated me with tenderness, great respect and over the many years we are best friends.  Many of times her words have come mind as I hear myself talk and that is a blessing. I know this has started out as sewing, but we are so much more that what we do. We are a wonderful creation w/ many faucets to us that vier out into some many different dimensions.It is so so neat to hear and share with others to see where they are and where we all have come from and how much better we are with sometimes only one simple encourging word. SO thanks my dear and all to those who gather,  :~)

          27. Josefly | | #44

            I second what scrubble4 says. Your tales of your experiences are wonderful. And you're so cheerful and positive, it's a treat to read. Thank you for sharing that with us.

          28. dollmarm | | #46

            Thanks to you too and read the previous posting that I share to scrubble4 ! I enjoy this time that I can grab.  As many have said when there are trials/hardships in life - you have to stay positive and stay above the situtation so you not get bogged down in. OH I do have my moments of the whoooo.....  as my pal Eeyore.   I know it is said, not be an Eeyore, but be a Tiger.  Tiger makes me think you taking too much !  (teheeheeehee) NOW that is not to be  offensive to all those who love him.   I just like Eeyore.  I love it when he says OH BOTHER, cause you know iffin' we all be honest - we say the same - maybe in different verbiage......... It has been extremely nice to share where we have been.  I love to go back and look at the photos; too to see my baby that are now grown.  SO whatcha' sewing on?  :~) 

          29. Josefly | | #47

            Thanks so much for sharing the story of your missionary friend. It reminds me that gratitude is a great thing to cultivate, and I've found that when I concentrate on the things I am grateful for, I begin to actually FEEL grateful, and that's a wonderful blessing when you're scared, worried, or feeling loss. Your friends seem to have mastered that, and you, too.I'm currently visiting my daughter who's undergoing some medical tests, and we're trying to be both grateful and hopeful as we have to await results. A surgical biopsy was necessary, and the results won't be known for a couple of weeks. While she's recuperating from the surgery, we're going to sew a skirt for her.Then I'll return home on Monday, finish up the bridal veil I partially finished for the bride to try on with her dress. She loved the way it looked by the way, so - Success! I now only have to attach it more securely to the comb. Then I'm going to look through my stash, start on a muslin and fit myself with some pants! I want to make a rayon-linen shell top and those flowing pants that've been discussed in another thread. Something cool and comfortable for summer.

          30. scrubble4 | | #48

            Josefly:  " results won't be known for a couple of weeks"

            My heart and thoughts are with both of you.  That is such an unnerving wait.  I recently experienced just a short snippet of what you are going through and it terrified me at moments.  It is so hard not to give into the terror.  Great you are focusing on something nice (a skirt for her) that you both can talk about and work on.

            Let us know how things turn out.

            Scrubble4

          31. Josefly | | #50

            Thank you for your kind words. I returned home today, leaving my daughter in good spirits, thank goodness. We didn't do any sewing, but we did start some flower and herb seeds, me lifting the heavy stuff and her directing. She was greatly relieved that the surgery was over; now we wait for the results, but realizing that the chances are greater for a good answer than for a bad one. All of us are optimistic, and will deal with whatever comes.

          32. dollmarm | | #49

            Thanks for sharing and I will keep you both in my prayers.   Our trails and tribulations can either makes us stronger or keep us down only if we let them.  It is hard to live through them and harder to smile and believe.  There is a purpose,a plan, and reason for everything.  And just because we do not know doesn't mean it was meant for bad.  There is teaching in every step we take and what we learn in the midst of our path can be shared with the next hurting soul.  Waiting is the hardest part.   When you wait you are inter-twining yourself around faith and or fear.   If is faith you are uplifted - If it is fear you - you lower yourself farther than you thought you could be. NOW we have those moment where fear of the unknown grips and we cry and reach out and that is  okay for we need others.  But we can not stay in that fear for it works against our health.   I will keep you both in my prayer as you both enjoy being together,  Sewing will be great therapy and make her a new skirt will be an added medicine for the soul and should lift her spirits. 

            I remember when I had an fall and had to have emergency surgery - I was terrified of going under and when my husband was told he had to leave for me to be wheeled in - he prayed for me and said, "all I had to fear if I woke up in Heaven - was what was he going to do with all my stuff?  We laughed and the next thing I remember was the surgical nurse over me saying I was in recovery.   Laughter does the body good - so find as much to laugh about and be thankful for this time you both to share and sew.  :~) 

          33. Josefly | | #51

            Well, we didn't sew, but we gardened - that's always a hopeful thing to do, I think, and we did have a few good laughs - I agree, the body responds wonderfully to laughter. It was a precious time, even though we still don't know the outcome. I appreciate your thoughtfulness.

          34. dollmarm | | #52

            SO good for laughter !!!  I will keep you and your daughter in my prayers - that waiting is a trying time.  Just keep the faith! I got an early call from my sister this morn.  She has been in pain and her neck was very sore and hot with one place swollen -she was in tears.  She is my youngest and dearest sis. She was born when I was 13 and we were pals when I lived at home.  She called her Dr. and they told her to come right and she was crying for fear of what it was and them telling her to come right in. They took all sort of blood test and put a rush on one.  Dr. believes alot is stress and she has a slight infection, plus they have moved and she helped her daughter and son-in-law move too; all w/in the last 2 months, so she is exhausted.  He stated there are several things going on but not to worry but to rest as much as possible.  He told her that stress will only make the infection worse.  She is on a high antibiotic.  She and I talked of her health.  She calls herself fluffy and she knows she is overweight and not in the best of health.  She is like most of us moms - we take care of everyone else and then us and it is catches up eventually.  (sad to say)  Gardening is great therapy too.   We have had and still having so much rain - my ground is mush.  My flowers look great.  They were planted by the lady that lived here before me.  I have NO green thumb. sad huh I want to call the local gardening group to come do a walk-around my place and give me some advice on how to best set what will grow where - we have lots of sun in places and everything gets scorched and then some have complete shade I want to put some low ground cover in those areas.  They offer this at certain times of the year so I waiting for this come out in the paper. Do you have the skirt to work on or will she?  So glad you had such a 'precious' time.  Those memories are keepers.  Thanks for continuing to keep me informed I appreciate this and do not borrow trouble.  Be positive no matter what.   Being sick and or have a loved one ill is extremely painful.  It is just hard with my daughter going through her pregnancy in another state.   She feels torn, wanting to be both places. She calls and we chat and I cherish it when she does.  A mom is mom always! I am working on a homemade soup, so must close up for now for the final touchesKeep smiling  - keep sewing and the heart full, :~)

          35. Josefly | | #53

            No, I didn't bring the skirt stuff home with me. We didn't even get it out. DD will sew it when she catches up a little. But the gardening was fun and a good excuse to be outside in the beautiful sunshine under gloriously blue skies. Birds were everywhere. We put up a hummingbird feeder, and less than 15 minutes later there was a visitor.I know you'd like to be with your daughter during her pregnancy. There's a pull to be with our kids when they're going through something they're worried about. But I'm sure she cherishes your talks together. Your sister, also. Keeping good thoughts for you, too.

          36. dollmarm | | #54

            So glad you had the beautiful weather.   :~)  It is such a fine line as a mom.  You want them to grow up and be adults and you do not want to interfer - you just want to be there and be a part. I didn't have my mother around and we were never close so I wanted this with my daughter.  Yes, I am thankful for the talks, they do make the distance better. I love the spring and the birds. There is no better time of the year. :~) 

          37. Josefly | | #55

            Dollmarm and scrubble4:We are celebrating today. We got the path. reports early, and all's "normal." Isn't that wonderful?! And not having to wait another week!

            Edited 4/22/2008 10:23 am ET by Josefly

          38. dollmarm | | #56

            OH I could just wrap my arms around you !!!!!   PTL that is the best news today I am so so so so so so excited for you !!!   HOW WONDERFUL !!!  That is the best - WOW the Hallelujah Chorus must be rejoicing in the HEAVENS !! What a blessing to have this early and no more worry of waiting to know all is well ! Have some one give you a hug and squeeze you good - that's from me !! Must run for now,son needs me,  but thanks you so much for allowing us all here to be a part of praying for your daughter and sharing this wonderful news !  May we all have a great productive day - make it count - you & your daughter  have been granted a wonderful blessing - so happy for you both, :~)

          39. rodezzy | | #57

            What a wonderful, wonderful moment for rejoicing.  That is such good news.  "All things come together for the good."

          40. Josefly | | #58

            Rodezzy, and dollmarm, your comments are moving me to tears. Thank you for sharing in my joy and relief and gratitude. I cherish the verbal hugs!

          41. scrubble4 | | #59

            Josefly:  Hallelujah!  I am so pleased for you.  You don't realize you haven't been breathing normally until the stress goes in a whoosh and you take that first deep breath. 

            I am so very pleased.  Now the gardening and sewing and continue with joy rather with a back drop of anguish.  thanks for letting us know.  Scrubble4

          42. scrubble4 | | #15

            Josefly:  "where is info available on how to customize those padding pieces to suit an individual's body?"

            I have been reading Sandra Betzina's More Power Sewing .  In her "Behind the Jacket Scene" section she has a page on CHEST SHIELDS.  I quote her here, "The shield serves two purposes: To make the shoulder pads invisible and to fill in the slight hollow between the shoulder and the chest on the jacket front.  ..... If you have access to a tailoring supply house the pre-cut chest piece for a man's jacket can be adapted for a woman's jacket by merely cutting the extra padding included in the front shield above the bust."  She then goes on to tell us how to make our own.  "cut a shield piece from the jacket front following the shoulder, armhole and roll line markings."

            Josefly the piece looks like a very fat boomerang with the centre pointed piece aimed at the roll line and the v'd back piece skirting around the armhole.  the part by the shoulder seam is the one end and the part by the side seam is the other end. 

            Sandra then explains, "Depending on the weight of the outer fabric, the shield can be cut of polyester fleece, pellon or Suit Shape."

            She also recommends a back shield to cushion the back from the shoulder pad.  The sequence of fabric is as follows:

            fashion fabric, underlining, interfacing attached to underlining, shield loosely attached to underlining/interfacing combo and then lining. This is all on page 12 of this really great book. 

            Hope that helps.  I am now keen to see if we have a tailoring supply house here in Vancouver BC where I live.  I have never looked for such an outlet, nor looked for suit shields in any sewing outlet. 

            Thanks for asking, as it caused me to do a bit of research from which I am definitely benefiting.

            Take care Scrubble4

          43. Josefly | | #17

            You know, I DO remember seeing that now, in Betzina's book. I checked that one out from the library. Oh, great, thank you for sussing that out amd reminding me of it. Im going to get that one along with the one jjgg suggested.Your description of the layers of fabric and the shapes of the shields is great. I've got to try this...I love nice jackets, but have been putting off fine-tuning the fit for myself, and, oh, there are so many excuses!

          44. scrubble4 | | #20

            Josefly:  Let me know what you think of the one jjgg suggested.  I checked it out on amazon and the reviews are really great.  It seems like a lot of hand sewing is involved, but that is something I like.  For me it isn't just getting it done fast, but doing it really well so I am pleased with it.  I am often teased about the handsewing I do.  I just like it.  The trick for me in doing the handsewing isn't just the time, but more importantly, knowing ahead of time what it is I need to do.  Then I can sit with my husband as he watches T. V. and do my hand sewing.  It is companionable and I am not fussed about wasting time. 

            JJGG:  You are amazing with the sources you know and the knowledge you have.  I am beginning to think of you as our "go to it" source for even the most complicated or esoteric need.  Thanks for always sharing so graciously.  Scrubble4

          45. Josefly | | #23

            Yes, I agree; my attitude toward doing handwork is greatly influenced by my expectation of how long the project will take. I don't like being surprised by the handwork, but if I've allowed plenty of time, it can be a fulfilling task, and then I'm reminded again of how it's the process, not the product, that makes sewing a serene pleasure. There's a lot of pride that comes with a job-well-done, even if the stitches don't show. I think gardening is very like sewing in that respect. Probably housework, too.I think another reason I usually don't want to do handwork is that I never think my work is pretty - stitch length is uneven, etc. I've recently noticed though, that people who do lovely handwork don't just rely on their eye to determine evenness, they take the extra step to actually mark the placement of stitches with ruler and vanishing marks. It's the extra steps that make so much difference.

          46. scrubble4 | | #24

            Josefly:  Hear Hear!  Both to your comment about gardening mainly being a hidden task and to your concern about the appearance of your stitches.  The Master Class article in the most recent Threads was a challenge for me.  I looked at the perfect stitches and thought mine never look like that.  My domes (they called them snaps) just are not that pretty.  However, looking closely at the stitch I haven't been doing it right so maybe they will be better with the little loop on the outside. 

            I didn't know people measured their stitches, but it does make sense.  I have tried balancing a seam gauge with the small measurements on it while I hand sew.  Even though it is small, it is still too awkward.  You have got me thinking, maybe putting the stitch gauge on a long post it note that I could lift and replace as I work would help.  What do you think? 

            Thanks Scrubble4

          47. Josefly | | #25

            The post-it notes sound like a great idea. You could just use a ruler and mark dots with a chalk pencil along the seam allowance, but the post-it sounds better the more I think about it, you can re-stick it as you move along the seam. I'm going to remember that, and if we were smart, we would patent a stitch gauge like a tape measure, maybe, printed onto re-stickable tape. I wonder if knitters and crocheters also could use a gauge like this.And the tape could be clipped so that it could be laid alongside a curved edge. What other features would add to such a tool?

          48. User avater
            Thimblefingers | | #26

            Not sure who to post this to, thus "ALL".  I studied Men's Tailoring in the early '80's at a Northern Alberta Institute of Technology in Edmonton, Alberta (course was discontinued shortly after as they felt it wasn't applicable to our modern times).  Our instructor was an Italian Tailor.  He told us that in Italy it takes longer to become a "Tailor" than it does to become a Doctor.  We called the chest piece a "hymo".  They can either be created by doing all the cutting and stitching of the pieces yourself or they can be purchased at tailoring supply stores already constructed ready to cut and shape.  Our suits had very little machine sewing - mostly hand-stitched and hand-shaped and, yes, we drew the pattern directly onto the fabric.  Our instructor felt it was demeaning to the tailoring profession to say, after a mere 10 months of training, that we were "tailors" so he was very strict.  Seams were sewn at 7 mm not 6 mm or 8 mm, and yes, he came around and measured.  At the completion of our jackets, if the lining was not loose enough, he slashed it with his knife and it had to be completely redone before we could receive a passing mark for it (believe me - a LOT of work!!)  We soon learned to be meticulous right from the start - we didn't want to make ANY mistakes!!!

            The book mentioned earlier about Men's Tailoring is the closest one that I have found to what we learned.  I would recommend it.  Although we didn't use any texts in our course, I did purchase that book for myself when I discovered it.

             

          49. scrubble4 | | #27

            Thimblefingers:  Your name should be Nimblefingers.  WOW What an extraordinary experience.  You have knowledge that almost no one else in North America has today.  How lucky for us that you are part of our Gatherings Group. 

            I am a teacher.  I can just imagine the abuse charges that would be laid today if a teacher slashed a student's work, yet I hear your voice saying it made you all very careful.  Hmmm must be a middle road that leads to care without emotionally demonizing students. 

            Do you think the purchased Hymo's can be adapted to a woman's suit as a short cut to making your own? 

            Thanks Scrubble4

          50. User avater
            Thimblefingers | | #28

            I suppose that nowadays some could call it abusive.  However, when he gave instructions, he gave them clearly enough that only blatant disregard for what he taught, laziness, or carelessness could cause errors.  He was an excellent instructor and none of us felt "abused".  He also made it very clear from the start what his expectations were.  And we were all adults.  And, yes, it was an incredible experience. 

            We learned to draft the suit to measurements rather than using a pattern.  In fact, we learned how to do it using only height and chest measurements and "observations".  It's amazing how accurate it is.  We made a suit for the President of NAIT with only those two measurements and had only 1 fitting - the final one for sleeve and trouser length.  It fit perfectly.

            We discussed using the men's hymo and style of tailoring for women's suits.  It certainly can be done but it does give a very stiff,"military" look to the jacket.  Adapting the idea of the hymo to women's tailoring but with less padding and softer fabrics is probably preferable.  I believe it is also possible (depending on the construction of the hymo) to remove some of the padding and make it "softer".

            I haven't gone into men's tailoring but the instruction was priceless and I've used it in many other ways.  I certainly have a great respect for real tailors and the labour that goes into a well-tailored suit.  What took me months to learn and do, takes a good tailor a week but like someone mentioned earlier, it takes many years to get to that point.  I'm afraid I found the work tedious and boring.

            (Nimblefingers is my computer's name!)

          51. starzoe | | #35

            To measure small stitches as in topstitching, appliques, and quilting, try this: Using some sticky paper (I use address labels, cut up), cut one to size and place it on your left thumbnail (assuming you are right-handed). That thumb is probably on top of your work and the sticky marker will aid in keeping stitches even from both angles, length and distance apart. It may take a little while to get the right spot, but it does work.

          52. scrubble4 | | #36

            Starzoe:  Totally cool idea.  you are brilliant.  Thanks Scrubble4

          53. dollmarm | | #19

            Hey I like that for a jacket - sounds neat .  U really like this book, huh?

            Would U recommend as the best ?  :~) 

  2. User avater
    VKStitcher | | #10

    I just got a chance to watch this video.  How fascinating!  All that hand work, and steaming and pressing--that's why those suits look so great.  Thanks for sharing this with us.

  3. dressed2atee | | #34

    Now I know why I don't make men's suits :)  Very interesting though!

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