altering curved front blazer hem
I just altered a blazer and, for the first time, had to shape the front hem curve twice on one side to get the two fronts even. I had pinned it so it looked right on the client, pressed the new hemline in lightly and turned the blazer inside out to proceed. I usually do one front curve and use the piece I trimmed away to match up the second side so the curves are identical. this has always worked like a charm in the past, but this time NO! I was able to correct it as soon as I saw it, so everything was fine. Just puzzled as to what went wrong. Everything was carefully pressed and marked.
I’ve been told that a lot of tailors won’t alter a hem on a blazers with curved lower fronts. Maybe this is why? have I just been lucky all the years before this? Just wondering.
Edited 1/9/2009 7:23 am ET by NansiSews
I don't have a clue, but I like your idea of doing one and using the cut away to alter the other side.
Is it possible that the overlaps were different on the different sides? I have seen jackets and coats with a longer extension on the overlap than on the under lap--perhaps to save fabric or reduce bulk. In that case, the curve on the overlap would be longer than the on on the underlap, though they'd have to be equal from the center front line outward.Another possibility is that your client's torso is asymmetrical, like most of us, with one half of the bust larger than the other or one shoulder higher than the other. Either asymmetry would make the front hem of the blazer hang differently on different sides.
It was the underlap and the one I did second that was the longer of the two, which I only discovered when turning right side out to double check (usually it's to admire my handiwork, ha-ha). I button the jacket and hang it to be sure and when itwas buttoned prperly that's when I noticed the difference. and it was only in the curve area. My other double check is to measure from the pocket (when there are one on each side) to the new hemline and everything matched up beautifully there. So I guess the idea of double checking every step is still the best way to go!
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