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Conversational Threads

Altering Length of Center Back Seam

fearyenot | Posted in Fitting on

Hi To All:

I’m looking at the December 2005/January 2006 issue of Threads.  I’ve been working on pants most recently using Joyce Murphy’s article on pgs. 36-41.  I have all the seams sewn, the zipper in, all four crosswise grains ( high hip, hip, crotch line and thigh) marked and the lengthwise grain marked.  I have not sewn in the waistband.  I’m seeing the length of the center back seam is at least 1″ short.  The four crosswise grains dip in the back and I also have those little horizontal wrinkles indicating the CB seam is too short. Plus, if I pull up the CB seam, the crosswise lines straighten and the little wrinkles disappear.   I adjusted for a dropped seat although perhaps I need to do more?

Anyways, looking at pages 40 and 41, it states do not use the slash and spread method nor adding to the crotch point method.   Do I “scoop out” more the CB to increase the length? How do I add length to the CB? Slash it completely horizontally and redraw the crosswise grains?  I’m not sure what to do!

Thanks in advance!  The recommendations I received by other members last month using Joyce Murphy’s technique have been very helpful.

Anne

Replies

  1. solosmocker | | #1

    I hope others jump in. If it were me I would add a gusset to the back only crotch seam after stitching the center back seam together. Then baste fit till the length is right. Baste the crotch seam closed to test the final fit. If ok, stitch your regular regular stitches on the seams. Just my rudimentary way, and I am sure others with more experience will pipe in to help too.

  2. mem | | #2

    What do they have against slash and spread ?? I take it that you are making the real pants not just a muslin? If so then the gusset is a good solution  and really that just adding to the crotch point.

    1. solosmocker | | #3

      I wonder too! I have to get that issue out and review as my curiosity has the best of me.

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