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Altering One Seam panats

Brine | Posted in Fitting on

I have just made my first pair of Louis Cutting’s One Seam Pants and am trying to figure out a way to adjust the fit for a flat seat. The pants have a slight sag in back which seems to go away if I raise the center back (I would then need to scoop out the crotch curve to get back the crotch length). The problem is that the pants have a cut on waist band which would no longer be on the true cross grain if I did this. Does anyone know if Louise has addressed this problem? Or do any of you have any suggestions? TIA

Replies

  1. makesthings | | #1

    I just bought that pattern a month ago and have made 16 pairs!! I also have what I consider to be a flat backside and love the fact that these pants are not baggy in the seat. I think you have not taken enough off of the top edge of the pattern. I must admit that I have taken some liberties with her pattern: I press over the finished top edge 3/4 inches then lay 1/2 inch elactic inside the fold then close the casing by stitching along the elastic with a zipper foot. I find this much quicker than her instructions inserting the elastic with a bodkin. And I think the narrower casing is a bit more modern. One night I made 5 pairs in 2 hours!! 

    1. rodezzy | | #2

      Whoa, where is that pattern sold?

      1. makesthings | | #3

        I bought it at a show, but her pattern company is called Cutting Line- I'm sure you can find it on the web.

    2. GailAnn | | #5

      16 pairs of pants!  16 whoa, I'm not sure I've had a total of 16 pairs of pants in my whole life!  It boggles my mind.  Where would I hang them?  How would I keep track of the laundry?  Are you getting ready to pack for a long trip? 

      I'd better shut-up, I maybe do have 16 skirts...........Gail

  2. Teaf5 | | #4

    You don't need to "gain back crotch length" if you have a flat seat, so raising the center back is the only adjustment you should make.  A flat seat has a much shorter crotch length than a rounded seat does.

    While the waistline on my pants and skirts drops a full inch lower than typical, this doesn't skew the cross grain at all; it just makes a more defined curve between the center back and the side seams (more of a smile, as I like to think of it).

    With a flat seat, your pants need to hang in a straight line from the waistband instead of from the apex of a rounded bottom, and raising the center back seam is the way to make this happen.

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