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altering pants pattern

gahoad | Posted in Fitting on

Here are some posers for all you veterans of the pants fitting wars:

I’m using a Burda pants pattern, and am pretty satisfied with the fit.  The one I am using has two front darts on each pattern piece (four altogether on the front)

Now I want to eliminate the front darts on the pattern to have a completely flat front.  Where do I take out the excess fabric?  From the zipper area, by cutting the front seam on the bias to taper into the waist; or do I taper the side seams a little more? Or both?

Here’s a second question.  Are there any special tips that anyone knows about for inserting a zipper in the side seam rather than in the front fly area?  I’ve never tried this one, and am intimidated by the curve of the side seam. 

Thanks –
Gretchen

Replies

  1. FitnessNut | | #1

    "Now I want to eliminate the front darts on the pattern to have a completely flat front.  Where do I take out the excess fabric?  From the zipper area, by cutting the front seam on the bias to taper into the waist; or do I taper the side seams a little more? Or both?" Not that I have previously done this, but my pattern books indicate that you would divide the dart intake evenly between the center front seam and the side seams, taking in at both spots. You may want to test this in an muslin for fit before tackling the real thing.

    You can insert a zipper in the side seam with no problems, as long as you pay special attention to preventing any stretching of the bias. One way to do this is to use a strip of fusible interfacing in the seam allowance to stabilize the area. Just don't overhandle the fabric...this is the main reason for stretching out of seams. Personally, I like a lapped zipper application at the side seam....nice and clean.

    Good luck with your project.

    Sandy

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