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another underlining question.

sunnycenter | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Well I decided to underline with flannel. Can you underline where you are going to have a welt pocket or does it make constructing the pocket difficult? Do you just attach your underlining to the lining instead of the garment in that case so you dont have it in the way of making the pockets?


  1. mrsdwight | | #1

    Underlining where the pocket will be is important. If you don't, that area won't "match" the rest of the garment. Also, underlining will help support the pocket and keep it from showing through on the right side.

    After transfering the markings, baste through both layers on the stitching lines. Then you can treat it like one piece of fabric. There is more bulk to work with - but I've found it to be worth the effort. Good luck.

  2. zuwena | | #2

    As mrsdwight says, interlining/interfacing is an absolute when making a welt pocket.  It's the same technique as making a bound buttonhole.  The interlining/interfacing supports the pocket and, also, gives a nice substantial edge to the welt.  Use care in selecting the underlining--make sure it is the right weight for the fashion fabric and won't create a stiff, boardlike appearance.

    1. sunnycenter | | #3

      Now I'm a little more confused. I understood an underlining to be another layer of fabric that you baste onto the garment front and back pieces to add warmth and or support/shape. I always put a rectangle of fusible interfacing behind a welt, but what I was wondering about was the underlining one does to add warmth. I want to use flannel and just wondered if I should double it to the lining as opposed to the brushed denim that I am using for the outer fabric so that construction of the welt would go easier. Maybe I could just cut a hole in the underlining so it doesn't get in the way? I mean even with the most helpful tips, welts can be challenging, right?

      1. jjgg | | #4

        ok, if you are just using the flannel (not a normal underlining fabric) to add warmth to the garment and are not using it for structure and stability, then yes, go ahead and match it to the lining, don't fuss with it at the welt pocket, it would prove to be much too bulky. underlinings are not used to add warmthm, they are for structure and stability of the fashion fabric, Warmth is in the lining and I suppose it would be a good use for the word interlining ( I never did know what that was!)- this will NOT be basted to the fashion fabric but treated as the lining.

        1. sunnycenter | | #5

          What a relief. I'll just baste it to the back of the lining fabric.

      2. zuwena | | #6

        I'm sorry if I contributed to the confusion.  Interlining and interfacing are terms of art, which depending on the fabric used and how it is used might be interchangeable.  However, my understanding (and I am not an expert) is that whatever the fabric if it is cut the same as the fashion fabric and treated as "one" with the fashion fabric it is generally called and interlining.  Fabrics used to support collars, cuffs, plackets, etc only on the garment are thought of as interfacing; and, of course, there are the specialty fabrics identified as " interfacings" intended for that solo purpose.  But even then, something like "fusible knit tricot" ( sold as Easy Knit) might be used as an interlining for some fabrics.

        Now, I thought you might be interested in a quote from Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina, to wit:                                                                                                               

        "Interlining is a method of underlining a garment to give warmth without bulk.  Often you need the warmth of a heavy winter coat but would prefer the close fit of a coat in lighter weight fabric.  Examples might be a velvet coat for evening, a kimono to wear with pants for an evening wedding . . .The secret lines in underlining with flannelette or lambs wool.  I prefer flannelette because it is softer and considerably less expensive.  To underline a garment, you must make a choice whether to interline the outer fabric or the lining.  If the style is a structured one and the outer fabric could use more body, interline the outer fabric.  If the style is a loose style with considerable fullness, interline the lining.  if the outer fabric is interlined in a full style, the fabric will become less fluid and the drape will be lost."

        Note:  Buy a little more flannelette as you should preshrink it before using.  Happy sewing.  Zuwena

      3. SewNancy | | #7

        You are confusing 2 different things that have 2 dfferent names.Underlining in silk organza or cotton voile or flannel.(frim and soft) stabilize the outer fabric They can make a fabric that is not quite thick enough so that you use it for a jacket. You would still interface the coat or jacket. An interlining is when you underline the lining for warmth. The choices here are washed cotton flannel, thinsulate, and lambswool. these provide extra warmth for a winter coat or jacket. I have used all of these and right now I am adding lambswool to a coat I am making. This is harder to find, but available from http://www.greenbergandhammer.com I hate Sunback. That is the flannel backed satin. It does not really add that much warmth and it comes in a limited number of colors. With interling you can use a wonderful print or better quality rayon or silk.
        I wrote this before reading the above letter, but atleast I gave you a source if you decide to use lambswool, I have used flannelette and didn't find that it was all that warm.

        Edited 10/25/2006 8:46 am ET by SewNancy

        1. zuwena | | #8

          Thank you so much for the clarity.  I have looked up and checked many publications and this is the first definitive clarification I have found.  It certainly clears up things for me.  Thanks again.  Zuwena

        2. zuwena | | #9

          Please check the address for the greenberg website.  I did not get anything akin to fabric when I clicked.  Thanks.  Z

          1. SewNancy | | #10

            It is not a fabric store but the definitive notions, but much more, store in NYC. Try http://www.greenberg-hammer.com

          2. zuwena | | #11

            Thank you for the web address revision.  It was the hyphen rather than the "and" that was needed.  I was not very precise in my query.  I didn't mean "fabric" per se but rather fabric, sewing related items.  The other website deals with finance and mortgages, etc.  Thanks again.

          3. SewNancy | | #12

            When you go to the website, there are two options for shopping, one the onsite catalogue and then there is the PDF full catalogue, there is where everything is. Service is great and it is the only place that I know to get Colonial darners in sizes 7 and 9 instead of an assortment. These are long thin needles with a long scarf. Easy to hold and easy to thread. I learned to use these needles when I took French couture sewing classes 25 years ago. As I get older they are easier to use than small needles.

          4. zuwena | | #13

            Thank you so much for the information, particularly the extra note regarding the needles.  At this late age I am in the middle of taking a haute couture class and could really use those needles.  I have 9s and 10s but they are short and all today as I worked on pockets I thought about how great it would have been to have a fine long needle. Z

          5. SewNancy | | #14

            I introduced those needles to a friend who does high end custom home dec professionaly and she loves them too. It is never to late to learn, is it? And the older we get I think that we really appreciate it even more. I would love to be able to take a pattern making class or a draping class, but I would have to travel too far to do this. Maybe when I retire.

          6. MaryinColorado | | #15

            Thank You so much for that website!  Finally, a place that has bra cups in sizes other than A/B!!!  I have looked for these for years and am so glad to finally find them!  Mary

          7. SewNancy | | #16

            Glad to be of help. I almost never go to the store anymore as it on 57th street since all the great fabric stores there have either closed or moved to the garment district, I just don't get there. But, to be honest the online catalogue is easier as the store is small and crowded due to high rents I am sure.

          8. MaryinColorado | | #17

            This econcomy is a tragedy for so many.  Unfortunately our freedom becomes at risk along with it!

            I am so thankful that we have the online sources so we aren't forced to shop at the big chain stores unless we choose to!  I try to support the privately owned smaller businesses as much as possible.  They tend to have better ethics and actual customer service as well as smiling curteous employees.  They also seem to have actual knowledge about thier products and services. 

            Too bad the computer doesn't have a "tactile" button so we could actually "feel" those wonderful textiles!  Mary

          9. SewNancy | | #18

            Many years ago, 25 at least there was a wonderful small fabric store that only carried the best fabrics. She shopped in the garment district and she had wonderful taste. This is where I took French couture lessons. Sadly, she died and there was no one to take over the store. I live close enough to NYC to travel in, but its still easier to shop online.

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