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Applying boning

Stitchwitch | Posted in General Discussion on

I’m busy sewing a strapless bodice with a dropped waitline. I’m restricted to using the Rigilene type boning. Which panles do I bone and where do I place the bones? I have constructed an underlining for the bones to be attached to. I find that when the bones past the waistline it wants to bulge out, creating a “tummy” at the front panel and the back panel also bows outwards. The side panels seems to be fine. Can I bone the princess bust seams? My client needs some support for the bust.

Is it a good idea to place some bones vertical as well, to add additional support? I was thinking of doing this over the front and back centre panels.

 

Replies

  1. sewchris703 | | #1

    YOu will need to place the boning at all the seams, including the princess seams that go over the bust. The princess seam boning (both front and back) can end just above the natural waist if you want. But I'd have the side seam boning extend at least 2" below the waist and end at the hip bone (in your case at the lowered waist line of the pattern). That will prevent the bones from causing a crease at the waist. You might need to place this bone on the fashion fabric instead of the lining/underlining. Some gowns have added lengths of boning on the side panels between the side seam and the princess seam. Sometimes the center front also needs boning. What does the pattern call for?

    Chris

    1. Stitchwitch | | #2

      Thanks Chris. The pattern only calls for boning over the princess seam at the bust and the side seams butI know this will not be enough. I'm using a very stiff interfacing on the underlining so I'don't think I need to bone CF. I'm going to place 2 pieces of boning over the front and back side panels. The princess seam, only to the wasit. I'm also going to bone the Cb panel, only to the wasit. The side seam gets an open ended zipper so I cannot bone the side seams but I am boning these panels anyway. Should the bones be on the grain of the fabric or can it be at any angle?

      1. sewchris703 | | #3

        Bones can be at any angle.  Some gowns even have boning in fan shape radiating from the center front waist spanning from the busts across the center front.  Be sure to stitch down both sides of the rigilene.  That will keep it from twisting.  On the seams, I center the rigilene and stitch each side to the seam allowance only if sewing on the fashion fabric.  On the underlining or the lining, stitch through all layers.  With a side zipper, you probably will have to bone the right side seam only.  The zipper will keep the left side smooth and from sagging.  If not, then use the 1/4" boning and stitch it down the center to the back side panel as close to the zipper as practical.  On the zipper seam allowance if possible.

        Chris

    2. jjgg | | #4

      If princess seams go tot he armhole, you can't really put the rigilene on those seams. It won't bend to follow the sideways curve of a princess armscye curve. If the princess seam goes straight up tot he shoulder, you can use it there. That's why I only use spiral steel boning, it will take a sideways curve. Rigilene and other plastic and white steel boning can only go in a straight line.

      1. sewchris703 | | #5

        True.  And I have had to remove rigilene from an armhole princess seam for that very reason.  Someone needs to remind the patternmakers and sample makers at the manufactures that.  I had forgotten myself since I mostly deal with shoulder princess seams.  Especially on strapless and speghetti strap gowns.

        Chris 

      2. damascusannie | | #6

        Where do you get spiral steel boning? I think I'll be making a Renaissance corset this winter and I'd like to use steel boning in it.

        1. jjgg | | #7

          I've ordered from Farthingales and Corset Making before, either one of these is a very good source. Farthingales I believe is in Canada, Corset Making is in Philadelphia.If you are going to order precut sizes, you have to know exactly how long you need them, this means you sort of have to make the corset first, measure what you need and then order. Have the bone about 1/2 inch shorter than the length of the area (I hope that made sense) Or you can get it by the yard and cut your own, you will need some kind of tin snip or other wire cutter for that, but it's not terribly hard to cut, and you will need to order the caps to put on the ends, not the easiest thing in the world, but not really difficult. It takes 2 pr of needle nose pliers to get the caps squished on right.You can also buy casing for it from these sources, or just make your own. The casing that you buy is straight grain, so if it's going to have to curve I make my own out of bias fabric strips.http://www.farthingales.on.ca/bones.phphttp://store.corsetmaking.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=CMS

          1. damascusannie | | #8

            THANKS! I want to make both a Renaissance corset and a mid-Victorian that I can wear when I'm demo-ing my old sewing machines in costume, plus my daughter wants one so I think we'll go with the uncut option. I have my own tools so I'm not worried about the cutting.

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