Armani style jackets.
I am considering making a jacket similar to one in the recent Threads article. I like the one with a high back neck and lapels but no actual collar. I am wondering how to handle the high back neck. I prefer traditional hand tailoring methods and it looks to me as though a pad stitched hair canvas interfacing would give it a nice curl in the right direction, but without a collar to cover it the pad stitching will show slightly. Does this matter? any better ideas?
Ghillie, if you are working with a fabric that is not too thin (like gabardine or thin silk) you can do your pad-stitching invisibly through the fabric, so that the stitch actually becomes part of the weave. Keep your needle carefully parallel with the fabric, and if you feel the metal of the needle coming through the fabric from the outside, pull it out and re-start the stitch. If you see red soaking through the fabric, then DEFINITELY stop. Sorry, couldn't resist some silly humour!
*Thanks for your professional encouragement, Karen. I did a test last night - without adding red polka dots. I cannot get the stitches parallel with the weave because the fabric has a twill weave, (its pure wool Venetian)and putting the stitches at 45 deg. to where they would normally go meant the pad stitches had to be larger or it ceased to work - difficult to explain. Anyway stitching across the weave, very carefully, just left slight dimples, which will lessen when I press them. I guess it will do. Cheers,Ghillie
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