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Back Adjustment to eliminate folds?

user-7815765 | Posted in Fitting on

I made the Colette Lisbon slip dress in silk satin with an embroidered lace trim. I usually have to do an FBA so I made a muslin first from the full bust measurement, with lightweight cloth, and adjusted that to fit. The issue with the final product is the weird pucker or fold at my lower back (see images). I have long had this same issue with bias cut garments in stores (so I just don’t buy them) and I recall when I used to sew bias cut garments long ago. 
Is this a length issue or a width issue? I am 5’9″ with fairly long back.
How would I fix this on a muslin? And how would I fix this on a pattern adjustment?
Is there a different fix for a waist- less pattern like this slip compared to a pattern with a waist seam or a skirt?

Replies

  1. user-7153267 | | #1

    Is the hem the same length at front and back of the garment or is it shorter in the back? If the same, you need to adjust the length of the back at the waist, by taking a triangle shaped pleat in the pattern piece, with the wide part of the pleat at the centre and then narrowing to a point toward the side seam. It looks like a dart. If the back is shorter at the hem, your will need to widen the pattern at the area where the garment is catching so that it will flow better. You may find it necessary to do both. Also, always let a bias garment hang for at least 24 hours before hemming to ensure an even hem all round. Hope this helps.

  2. user-7815765 | | #2

    Thanks!

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