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back fit help – getting wrinkle from …

kelly_Tygert | Posted in Fitting on

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I have a high round back. I have done this alteration and it feels good around my neck. I am still having two problems:
>1. I am getting an arc shaped fold from my shoulder blades down to about 6 inches below my under arm in the side seam. Is this prominent shoulder blades??
>2. My back and arms still feel a little tight. should I do a broad back adjustment?

Any suggestions would be appreciate!!

Replies

  1. Elona_Masson | | #1

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    Kelly, if I picture your folds right, it sounds as though
    you may indeed need more width. Those arc-shaped
    wrinkles may be due to both tightness at and just below the shoulder
    blades (broad back right there), plus maybe a need for a
    little more length between waist and shoulder blades.

    1. kelly_Tygert | | #2

      *Thanks for your suggestions. I will try that alteration next.Kelly

      1. Bill_Stewart | | #3

        *Kelly, one way to see if the problem is back lenght, which it sounds like, is to go out to the shoulder seam/sleeve seam intersection and pin out a tuck on the back side that tapers to nothing at the neck/shoulder seam intersection. Disregard the pulling under the arm for the moment, but rather feel to see if this shapes the back for a better fit above the armole line across the back. Normally the tuck is taken up sufficiently to fit the figure and alleviate the strain acrs you are describing. If this does the trick, the taper tuck amount is taken off the upper back shoulder seam only. Note this amount in total at the end of shoulder line. Now go down to the side seams and make several marks across this seam - thread markings at top, middle, and bottom of the seamline on each side of seam - so that when you open the seam you have marks on each side of seam. open the side seam completely and shift the back marks up relative to the front side seam marks the amount of the tuck. After the shoulder seam is tapered and the sides are shifted upwards, reshape the back armhole and reset the sleeve. When you go to do this the back should seam beacomes longer. Do not be tempted to cut off the excess length, but rather ease the excess back length onto the front. This helps to build in blade room as they do it on men's suit coats. Between the tapering and shifting if you use the same amounts, the armhole will remain the same size to rest the sleeve.

        1. edean | | #4

          *Hi. Help!!!!! LDaughter getting married!!!!! Simple sheath dress diamond darts front and back. Front fits, back is huge----where and how to reduce the pattern. Using armhole may be a problem since it is a sleeveless dress.

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