Help! Just finished this knit muslin of the Chai Tee by Liesl&Co, and I feel like the front is perfect but I wound up with rippling below the shoulder and next to the armscye. What would be the best adjustment…at the shoulder or at the bottom half of the armscye? I am fairly new to garment sewing and needed alterations has been my downfall thus far. Thanks in advance for any advice 🙂
Threads Insider
Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.
Start Your Free TrialAlready an Insider? Log in
Sponsored Content
Replies
I think take in the waist would be best. I find Walmart to have the best version of this dress shirt for my size.
Option one
Option two
Pair it with a traditional tank top for easier fit.
When you get diagonal wrinkles, they generally point toward the problem. I wonder if a shoulder slope adjustment would fix the problem. The odd thing is that the front looks perfect. You might turn it inside out and try pinning out the extra garment length along the shoulder seams.
If the back shoulder seam was parallel to the slope of your shoulder it would look better. It seems a little odd that the front and back seam style is so different. Should the back shoulder seam sit on top of the shoulder or is it meant to be going down the back? In either case I would think the seam should match the slope of your shoulder The back shoulder seam slopes down quite a bit but your shoulder does not. If you raised the seam so it doesn't slope down so much it would lift some of the fabric around the armscye. The sleeve will need to be removed to some degree to fix that.
if the back was slightly narrower the wrinkles would not be as pronounced, but my guess fixing the back shoulder seam slope would go a long way to fix the problem. There are some great discussions and videos on the shoulder slope on Threads. I hope I am not steering you in the wrong direction.
I think the back is too broad on the pattern. I would suggest opening the sleeve seam from center of shoulder to seam just in the back, and pinning an inch or so of the back fabric to the sleeve, using the regular stitch placement of the sleeve. Then put the garment on inside out to see if it hangs better. If that works, make the same adjustment to the pattern. Then you'll have a great example to check against future patterns.