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Bias cut

kayrosie | Posted in General Discussion on

Okay I would like to know if you pick a pattern that is to be cut on the bias and you would like to cut on the straight.  Is that possible.  Our material is fairly heavy so I am not sure it is goingto work good on the bias.  The pattern is Voque 8242.  


  1. user-51823 | | #1

    intended-for-bias pattern might be too snug on straight grain. or it might be unflatteringly rigid. because of the flexibility on the diagonal, untailored bias garments can fit the figure, expanding for outer curves while hugging inside curves. your pattern will look totally diferent. best to use a pattern cut for straight grain.

    1. kayrosie | | #2

      did you look at the pattern.  The girl is like a size 4 so I am not worried about that.  Also the material is heavy. 


      1. user-51823 | | #3

        i'm not clear what you are not worried about?
        her size doesn't matter; the pattern is meant for bias which means it needs that flexibility to ease over the bust and hips in such a fitted design. on straight grain, this may be too snug at widest areas. the finished dress will not drape as shown on the illustration, the lovely neckline as well as fitting the figure (i just looked at it) unless cut on the bias.just curious: this is not a design best for "heavy" fabric. are you trying to get a different effect? what kind of fabric are you actually using? i hope i don't sound critical. i'm just not clear on the details.

        Edited 1/16/2007 7:00 pm ET by msm-s

  2. Ralphetta | | #4

    You said the fabric was heavy.  If it is also a tight weave I think you would really regret trying to use that pattern in the way you mentioned.  I am definitely in favor of thinking "outside the box" when it comes to design.  But, the one thing I've learned the hard way, is that the suggestions the pattern companies make regarding fabrics are usually accurate.   After being imaginative and wasting lots of energy and fabric I've had to admit....this just didn't come out like I wanted.

    I apologize, I don't mean to throw cold water on your project  or stifle your experimentation.

    1. kayrosie | | #5

      That is okay I asked for advise.  OUr material is Crepe DE Chine.  It is a little heavier than Crepe Back Satin and it says that would work so I was thinking this might work.  WE have been trying to find a patern and I thought this one would work.  It has been hard to find one that would fit her and this one comes in a size 4.  I am going to try it with some other material and see what I think.  Thanks for your advise both of you. I am hoping this will work.


      1. user-51823 | | #6

        crepe de chine should do okay on the bias; what do you think ralphetta? tug on the bias and see how it feels.

        Edited 1/17/2007 2:07 am ET by msm-s

        1. kayrosie | | #7

          Okay I told you the wrong kind of fabric it is Peau De Soie instead of the Crepe De Chine.  Sorry.


          1. user-51823 | | #8

            pds has a stiffer drape, so it may be a bit rigid on the bias. as ralphetta said, a tighter weave is what you don't want. pdswould do much better where the pattern pieces are cut on the straight grain and curved to fit, rather than depending on the bias drape to cling to the figure. it sounds like a judgement call; i would play it safe and switch patterns or use a different fabric.

          2. kayrosie | | #9

            Can't change fabric as wehave it already boughten and there are four others I am making.  I almost have to stick with it.  I had another pattern picked out but it is not available at the store.  Must have discontinued it.  It was Pattern 8361.  I have sent a message to Voque to see what they say. I have struggled with finding a pattern that this girl would like.  I am frustrated.


          3. user-51823 | | #10

            bless your heart! i've been there, done that...sometimes you have to make the client understand that she knows what she wants, but you are the one who knows how to get it done, and that means looking for a better pattern to suit this fabric. however, the draped neckline is going to remain a problem. last chance check- have you held it up to your chest on the bias to see if it will drape similar to the illustration?
            i would suggest searching for a pattern that is similar in other areas, but wth a standard fitted bodice all the way up to top edge, and add a bias drape of chiffon in a coordinating color, to give the look of the original design.
            if it won't drape right and the client just won't accept your expertise, you should hand the whole project back to her so she can find someone else to do it. don't let her convince you to go through with something you know won't turn out right in the end.
            if you do it, charge enough for your extra trouble.
            what is your deadline?PS- i'm not saying it definitely won't work, but you need have her decide asap if she likes the way the neckline drapes so she won't blame you later. if she likes it, your problems are solved and you can proceed.

            Edited 1/17/2007 12:37 pm ET by msm-s

          4. kayrosie | | #11



          5. Ralphetta | | #12

            You have my sympathy. It's better to handle the situation now, than deal with all the resulting tears later! But, she needs to understand that the pattern she selected will NOT look like that if you cut it differently with different fabric, so it makes better sense to just find another pattern.  If they trust you to make it, they should trust your opinion. Somewhere, there is a thread with the saga of my emergency redo for a friend who had a dressmaker make the exact opposite changes.  It was an ugly disaster.  The best I could do was make it UNembarrassing, (but a major relief to her.)  It was gorgeous, soft, drapey fabric that was used on a pattern that was meant to be made out of something as firm as cardboard. I honestly don't think the person who made it tried to talk her out of it, because she didn't know any better herself.

          6. kayrosie | | #13

            I am waiting reply from Voque, I talked to a lady that works in a fabric store and has done alot of sewing, she seems to think that this pattern might work.  She has seen my material and has looked at the pattern so with that I might go ahead and use this pattern, that is we will see what they say at Voque.  Hard to find a pattern athis girl likes. 

          7. Josefly | | #14

            If you decide to go ahead and use this pattern, warn the girl that the fabric is stiffer than what is shown on the pattern envelope, and will most likely stand out from her body more than the picture shows. The drape at the neck I would guess is going to be the tricky part - with a soft fabric it would drape and hug the chest, not stand out. The straps, also, which look folded/pleated, will look a little different. Just warn her so she can prepare herself for some perhaps necessary changes. I always think silk when I see peau de soie, but some synthetics call themselves by that name, too. Which are you dealing with?Incidentally, I've seen silk dupioni, which is almost crinkly-stiff, cut on the bias into a beautiful dress. Just don't know about the neck drape on this one.Good luck, and what a wonderful MIL you are to take this on!

          8. kayrosie | | #15

            It is not silk so it must be the synthetic.  It is choc. brown and about the same weight as Crepe Back Satin.  So I am thinking it will be okay since it does say that it is suitable for Crepe Back Satin.  I just hate to tell her to find another one. I have done that about ten times already. I am just going to go with it.  I have told her it is not going to fit close to her body so she knows that. The neck is cut with a self cut facing on it.  It is all cut at the same time.  So that should be better.  I have been having nightmares about this. I really wish Vogue help would write me back. I wanted to cut these out this weekend but I am thinking I might have get with this girl and make sure she is okay with the way it is going to look on her.  Thanks all of you for your input.  I must say I am really confused about it. 

          9. mimi | | #16

            You might want to save yourself some heartache and time by making a muslin and having the young lady try it on to see the results.


          10. kayrosie | | #18

            I have bought some material the same weight and I am making a sample to see how it works.  I have done the other four already.   I am hoping to do that. BUt I was just wondering what everybody thought about the pattern.   I think with the facing all ready cut on it and you fold it down I am thinking it might work good.


          11. user-51823 | | #21

            the muslin won't drape the same, so it won't help much regarding the signature drapey neckline.
            LOL- i'm telling ya- all you need to do is fold a corner of the correct fabric over and hold it on the bias up to your /her shoulders. how that looks will be pretty much how the finished neckline will look, and should be a good enough test to know whether to proceed.

          12. Teaf5 | | #17

            Here's another option: Can you find a length of cheap fabric with the same weight and stiffness to make a sample of the pattern used on the straight grain or bias? It doesn't take very long to make up a rough sample, which you can also use for fitting/size issues, and you'll get a much better idea of the way it will look on her and the way the fabric will drape on the bias or straight grain.If you make the sample in a similar color as the final dress, your client will be able to visualize the whole effect much better and may be more open to suggestions/limitations. Use a long stitch, press it nicely, and press under any seam allowances/hem that would be faced or turned in the final garment. Use safety pins to secure the zipper area, and have her try it on in front of a long mirror (or 3-way mirror).Non-sewers have a very hard time visualizing our craft, and the wonderful contrast between a rough sample and polished final version is often enough to make them appreciate your skills and trust your judgement. When I did this for persnickety theatre directors, they always came around to my way of thinking.... Good luck!

          13. kayrosie | | #19

            I am going to do a practice dress first so I have some material like it.

          14. Ralphetta | | #20

            Maybe I reread this thread too fast, but the original question was about cutting it on the straight rather than the bias.  Somewhere the emphasis fell on the weight.  I thought you were still talking about not doing it bias which to me was a more serious issue than the weight.  Did you decide to do it on the bias?

          15. kayrosie | | #22

            yes I am going to cut on bias. But was worried about the weight of the fabric.

          16. kayrosie | | #23

            Okay I am so sorry for the confusion. Yes, I first asked about cutting this pattern on the straight grain instead of the bias.  All of the non sewers were asking me why I could not do that.  I thought I told them all the right answer, but wanted to make sure.  I am sorry I didn't explain myself first.

            My plan is to try a practice dress out of the same weight fabric that I have and see how it all works.  I am going to cut it on the bias and see.  Then I will decide if the neck, and the whole thing works.  I am a little trouble by it but I am thinking it will look okay. I realize and so does the bride that the color will be a little off.  She is not worried about that. Her main concern is that everybody is comfortable, everybody likes the dress they have and they are happy. So that is my main concern too. I am going to do it today. If I get it done I will post a picture of it.  It will be rough though, no zipper in just the shell.  The neck is the only place I am worried about. It is a simple pattern it says so I am going for it.  Wish me luck.  At least I have time to play with this.  This is my last practice dress. I have 8 others.  I won't be taking this project on again anytime soon. But I do love doing it. It is challenging.  My sister says I am nuts.


          17. Ralphetta | | #24

            It sounds like you have everything under control.  The practice dress should illustrate any differences that the nonsewers can't envision.  I was just "hung up" on the nonbias cutting and that's what most of my negative comments were  about.

            I hope everything works well and all are happy with the outcome.

          18. kayrosie | | #25

            I hope so too. I do have two of ;the junior bridesmaid dresses ready for final fitting and hemming. They went together so easy and I am so pleased with the.  Thanks for all of your advise. How do you keep up with on the post.  It is hard for me.  I am getting ready to cut out practice dress. Thanks again for the adivse.  

  3. sewingkmulkey | | #26

    I agree with the posters that stress the extreme fit difference in bias vs. straight grain.  I'm also concerned when you say that you had difficulty finding a size 4 pattern.  You need to realize that most pattern sizes do not correlate with RTW dress sizes.  I have two daughters that wear sizes 2-4 (RTW) but I sew sizes 8-10 in patterns for them.  Please check her measurements.  I'm glad that you are making up a test run muslin! 

    Good luck!



    1. kayrosie | | #27

      I am not cutting it on the straight grain I cut it on the bias.  I have it done in material that is heavy as what we are using and it is working.  I have the practice one done enough to try it on her.  Her measurements were like between a 4-8.  Bust was like four, her waist was like 8.  So did a 8 and will just adjust the bust.  I really liked the way it came out.  It is pretty.  I think she  will like it.   I hope so anyway.




      1. user-51823 | | #28

        i am so glad it's working for you!! good job! if she's a 4 top, and an 8 waist, i can see that she would be very particular to find a flattering pattern. i hope that someday you are technicall able to post photos of these dresses. again, congrats!

        1. kayrosie | | #29

          Okay I have the practice dress done for her to try on.  I did not put a zipper in it so I hope she can tell from just safety pinning it if it is going to drape at the neck like she wants.  It looks good to me. But on somebody is whole another story.  I will post pictures when I get them done.

          I was able to get one flower girl dress ready for fitting and the other one is well on its way. I can finish it this week and that makes four out of the five ready for final fitting and hemming and off to the cleaners for a good press job. That makes all the difference in the world to the.


          1. Josefly | | #30

            Good for you! I'm sure it's a relief to get so much done. We're all cheering for you.

          2. user-51823 | | #31

            what is your deadline?

          3. kayrosie | | #32

            The wedding is March 31, I would actually like to be done with the dresses by the end of Feb. have the final fitting, take to cleaners and press and be ready to go.

            I don't think the little girls will grow that much after Feb. that I need to worry about it do you.  My goal is to be done with all the dresses by no later than the first week in March.  I think it is feasible. I would really like to be done by the end of Feb.  and if I keep on schedule I will be able to do that.  I am thinking we will cut them out next Monday.  That is our plan.  Thanks for your concern and help.  It has been very helpful



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