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bias Cut front without darts??

mem | Posted in General Discussion on

hello , I have seen a lovely blouse which I would love to copy . It has chevrons of silk organza and embroidery which meet in the center and a button front. I was planning to make up the fabric by sewing together stripes of my fabric and the cutting the fronts on the bias thus creating the chevron design.My problem is that i have a D bust and need darts and I am wondering how I can get rid of the darts as they would disrupt the pattern of the chevrons and avoid looking like a circus tent with the fabric dropping straight down from my bust point. I usually make blouses with a verticle dart from the hem to below  the bust point . Can I delete this and curve in the side seam instead?? Any creative ideas please??


  1. ChrisHaynes | | #1

    I am very familiar with the bust problem.

    A couple of ideas:

    1) Do a princess seamed blouse... though it may have the problem with the stripes not quite doing what you want at the princess seam (I'm working on getting the Plain and Simple Princess blouse from http://www.hotpatterns.com working for me... I am a short stout middle-aged lady with a DDD bust!).

    2) Try a blouse with only a side bust dart.  That should take care of some of the bagginess, but not all of it (remember vertical lines are slimming.. ;) )

    1. mem | | #2

      Yes the princess is a good look for me but you are right about the chevrons being disrupted.  I am wondering whether I can cut the width of the dart out of the side seam ??

  2. LiseLaure | | #3

    Hello Mariane,

    In "Design Your Own Dress Patterns" (page 38), Adèle Margolis gives directions to make a dart-free sloper from a one dart sloper, but:

    • it is a waist sloper and not a torso one (shorter than your blouse ?);
    • it is "for a no-bulge figure".

    Draw new darts (front and back) from dart ends to the underarm curve (about 1-2" from the side seam). Fold out these new darts leaving 1/4" as ease. Shorten a little the front and back centers and blend the waist line. Cut on the bias and shape over a tailor's ham.

    Let us know how it works if you try it.


    P.S. What about shifting some of the dart intake to the neckline and/or armhole?

    P.P.S. What about converting the waist dart to a shoulder-end to apex flange?

    Edited 7/28/2006 11:36 am by LiseLaure

    1. mem | | #6

      So do you mean that you put a dart into the arm Skye going from lower arm hole toward the bust point and then fold it out leaving 1/4/inch ? Where do you put slashes to accommodate the open /closing which must happen in the bodice draft??

      I am concerned about not disrupting the chevron pattern so darts anywhere are a threat to this . I am considering making a muslin and the incorporating the shaping I must and then drawing in the chevrons to accommodate the darts necessary. I Know that I need to make the whole thing a lot bigger . Does Miss Margolis talk about what to do for the back bodice and sleeves . I am thinking of having these on the straight grain. Thankyou for your interest Its great to expand my sewing mind on this forum.

      1. LiseLaure | | #9

        You take the original dart and move its point from the bust point to the armscye. Then you slash one leg of the dart and fold it out leaving 1/4" of ease. You do exactly the same with the back waist dart. No change is mentioned for the sleeve.


        1. mem | | #10

          If you close a dart in the armskye wont you open up somewhere else??

          1. LiseLaure | | #13

            No, because the dart goes all through the pattern from the armhole (where is its new point) to the waistline (where are its leg ends). It's like slashing and overlapping the pattern, bringing the side seam (especially the bottom of the side seam) closer to the front. As a side effect, you get a less curvy armshole.


  3. mainestitcher | | #4

    DArts are what make a garment three-dimentional, (able to accomodate depth from front to back) rather than two dimentional, (height and width.)

    I don't see you going without them. Can they be incorporated into the chevrons? For instance: Say the chevrons form a V shape, looking at the front of your shirt. Maybe the stripes that point to your bust could be gently shaped to work like darts?

    1. mygaley | | #5

      Dear one, please remember that bias cut garments fit in a much more clinging way and have to be cut larger to start with.  Then, if you eliminate the dimension added by the darts, I believe it will be tighter than you would want to wear it, especially with your figure.  The idea to work with the chevron effect and thereby incorporate the darts sounds wonderful to me and so 40's.  Be sure to make up your muslin in a fabric of similar softness, so you can really see how this garment will cling.  I can't wait to see the finished blouse.  God bless you, Galey

      1. mem | | #8

        Well Galey this is brain tickler but then thats why I sew . Yes I have found out through BITTER experience about making it all bigger!!

    2. mem | | #7

      I had wondered about that too . I am sure that the great designers would have incorporated into the chevrons . How I can do this and make up my cloth before hand is a problem . Maybe I need to make up the pattern in muslin and cut out each Chevron incorporating the dart legs  probably one which goes from the armhole toward the bust point and then sew up the stripes which are already shaped to the bodice pattern rather than making up the striped fabric and then cutting out the bodice . I do love this forum .It so helps to talk out a problem!! Thank  you!

  4. stitchintime | | #11


    I was just flipping through this forum and thought of an idea which might help. How about using a princess seamed blouse but only running the chevrons down the center part until you hit the seam? Then you can use a solid fabric for the sides which might be slimming and easier to construct as well.

    Just a thought.

    1. mem | | #16

      Thats not a bad idea I will ponder on that . Thanks.

    2. mem | | #18

      would you cut the front side panel on the bias or just the front front chevroned one ??

      1. stitchintime | | #19

        Funny, as soon as I sent my first message I started wondering about that myself.

        My first thought is to stay with the bias cut on the front side panels which I think will flow better with the bias cut chevrons. But if you find that the clinginess of a total bias cut accents your chest too much and is not to your liking, then cut it on the straight grain. Looks like you'll have to do a little experimenting on this one.

        Good luck

  5. Teaf5 | | #12

    I like Mem's suggestion of the princess seaming and have seen several RTW blouses made this way--very flattering!  Here is another possible option:  use a pattern with a side dart, but instead of sewing it closed, ruche it along the seam line.  You'll have the extra ease you need, but no dart line to interrupt the stripes.  If you use a pattern with both side seam and an underbust darts, you can use a short pin tuck for the underbust seam and a ruched dart at the side seam.

    Whatever you choose, please share with us your results.  Stripes are popular again, and I'd like to know the solution to this problem!

    1. mem | | #17

      I like the idea of the rucheing I guess i would need to ease in a bout 1 inch which would nt be so hard.I actually have a blouse pattern whic has the dart in the right place and I might just give that a go and make it up in muslin and draw in the chevrons. This blouse has shaping in the side seam and has a shped center back seam which draws it in  around the waist a bit. Thankyou for your thoughts its so great having access to some lateral thinking from all over the world.

  6. User avater
    Becky-book | | #14

    one more idea... consider the end of each seam that composes your striped fabric as an opportunity for a small dart ....so some of the stripes will get a little narrower at the armscye and/or side seam.... hope that would not disrupt the chevron effect but would give some  shape where you need it.  Can't think of a better way to describe what is floating around in my tired mind ... will sleep on this idea... may have better verbal skill in the morning.


    1. mem | | #15

      No I do get what you are suggesting and I am sure that incorporating the dart into the chevron seam is the way to go. I just need to have some time to get a pattern made now .

  7. rekha | | #20

    Is it possible for you to upload a picture of it. I think you could incorporate your chevron seams as 'dart' but can't make further suggestions without a photo

    1. mem | | #21

      I cant do the picture as its a photo copy of a photo and it just wouldnt come out properly. I am starting to work it out though so I will show the finished item

  8. woodruff | | #22

    You might try to find Kwik Sew 2754, a shirt pattern designed to be cut on the bias. It has been reviewed at http://www.patternreview.com

    Just type 2754 into the search box at that site to read how it went together (for chevroning, you need to take into account the fact that the front foldline is NOT the center front, for example).

    1. mem | | #23

      thanks i will do that and yes the center front thing is taking some thought.

  9. Alexis | | #24

    I suggest using a pattern that has both a side seam bust and armscye darts.  This will make it easier to incorporate the darts into the chevron seams.

    Actually the dart can be move to or divided up at center front, the neckline, shoulder, armscye, side and waist seams.

    It is a very couture detail to hide the darts in seams. Madame Vionnet made a lovely dress hiding the shoulder and armscye seams in an allover pieced design.

    1. mem | | #25

      yes I have seen that dress in a lovely book that i have written by Betty Kirk. This blouse pattern will be my next project I think i will have fun nutting this out!!

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