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Bias Pattern Layout

schylar | Posted in Patterns on

Hi!!  I am a relatively new sewing enthusiast who needs some help.  I find myself drawn to the beautiful drape and design possibilities that come from cutting on the bias.  Therefore, I am now attempting my first “bias-cut” skirt using a pattern from Simplicity.  I followed my bias instructions and laid out all of my pattern pieces correctly – however –  one of my pattern pieces is a “cut 2 on fold” piece.  How do I cut on the bias while cutting on a fold?  Logic tells me that I should fold the material on the true bias and lay the piece on that resulting fold.  Is this correct?  I know this is probably a silly question.  However, I would appreciate any feedback at all since I don’t yet have sewing instincts that I can really trust.  Thanks!!!              

Replies

  1. CarolFresia | | #1

    It's not a silly question at all. Your solution would work, but the already inefficient layout that most bias garments require would probably only be worse. I'd trace the pattern piece onto a folded piece of paper so you have a whole piece, with right and left sides, and cut it out as one flat piece.

    Alternatively, take a look at Threads, No. 107, "A new twist on bias layouts." This article describes a neat technique for folding and sewing your fabric yardage into a "tube" that's all on the bias. Once you've done that, you can lay your pattern out on the tube as if it were straight-grain, and voila, a bias-cut garment. I've used this technique several times and LOVE it. It saves yardage and makes the whole process a lot easier. It's not the best choice if you're trying to match a print or stripes really precisely, but for all-over designs, it's great.

    Carol

    1. schylar | | #2

      Thank you so much for your suggestion!  I tried it when I got home last night and it worked like a charm!!  I am well on my way to my first bias cut garment.  Thanks again!

      1. CarolFresia | | #3

        I'm glad you had success with this method. When Samina's article proposal arrived in the office, a lightbulb went on in my head. No more huge, single-layer layouts spread out on the living room floor!

        Carol

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