Replies

1. 
   starzoe | Sep 10, 2007 10:40pm | #1

   Your first stop should be the pattern books; there's a huge variety of jackets and you will certainly find something that pleases you. You can find a good many collections on line, I find it saves time at the store if I have an idea of what is available. Either Google the brand name of the patterns or http://www.sewingpatterns.com

   It is very important to have your measurements with you to compare with the pattern. If you have someone to take your measurements, that is ideal. There is a measurement chart on the Threads site.

2. 
   SewistKitty | Sep 11, 2007 11:35am | #2

   It is always a shock when you realize that your pattern size will probably be larger than your ready-to-wear size. The ready-to-wear companies now use vanity sizing as we all like to be smaller. The pattern sizes in the Big 4 have been standardized for years. Within the Big 4 (McCall, Vogue, Simplicity, and Butterick) there are now plus-sized womens' and girls' clothing. There are many other companies to choose from such as Burda, Petite Plus, Pamela's patterns, and others. When many of us returned to sewing after many years of being away from it we had to come to grips with the fact that patterns out of the envelopes need a lot more alterations than when we were younger (sigh). Good luck with your new endeavors. You will find lots of support on this forum from all around the globe.
   Kathy

3. 
   zuwena | Sep 12, 2007 08:59am | #3

   Why not something other than a blazer but which has that blazer look.  Look at Vogue 2955, I think--its an Anne Klein pattern.  It seems quite versatile and will adapt to several different looks and anything from wool suiting to something more decorative like a brocade.  Try it with the collar and without, and for summer and winter outfits.  Z

4. 
   Teaf5 | Sep 14, 2007 03:17am | #4

   I love Simplicity 5253 and think it is still available in the back of the Jackets/Coats section of the current books.  I wear size 12-14 in ready to wear, and the size 18 in this pattern fits well if I lengthen the top of the lower front panels to account for a full bust.  I've made it in linen, cotton, and fleece and both lengths shown and love each one.

5. 
   DONNAKAYE | Sep 14, 2007 03:46am | #5

   Well, there are good blazer patterns and there are not-so-good blazer patterns.  I have had good results with Claire Shaeffer's couture collection patterns in Vogue.  Her attention to flat pattern detail has been most helpful and has saved a lot of headaches and disasters.  I find her patterns very reliable, and she has a wide selection to choose from.  If you're going to choose a blazer pattern, you need to know that not all of them are drafted properly, and with that kind of work involved, you need to start with a good one.  Claire gives us that.

   If you're a little rusty on couture and tailoring techniques, you might try a simple, less constructed blazer to get back in the groove and then move up gradually to the full-blown classic blazer with all its details.  I would suggest as a starting point, for example, eliminating vents from center back and sleeves, welt pockets, etc., and even choosing a pattern that has few construction details and simple lines until you feel more comfortable with the more advanced techniques.  Claire certainly has those to choose from as well.

   There are lots of books to choose from to refresh your couture/tailoring skills, but I would try to get DVDs so that you can see the cutting and marking, stitching and pressing techniques demonstrated.  I think this will make life a whole lot easier for you......D.

   
   

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   Edited 9/13/2007 8:51 pm ET by DonnaKaye

1. 
   JoesJez | Sep 14, 2007 08:25pm | #6

   Thats exactly what I was looking for.  I have looked at those Claire Schaffer patterns before but wasn't sure how good they were.  I have wanted to try her pants patterns as well.

6. 
   sewingkmulkey | Sep 14, 2007 11:37pm | #7

   I'm a size 16 in rtw but sew a pattern size 18 adjusting for full bust and long waist.  I, too, work in an office and wear unmatched pant outfits.  For pants I have basic, neutral colors and then pick bright fabrics that go with my coloring.  These are usually solid but interesting tone on tone patterned fabrics.  Then I use very basic princess style patterns that fit me perfectly.  I've made  the same couple of patterns (numbers are out of print) over and over again.  No one (and I mean no one) realizes that it's the same 2 patterns because the fabrics do the talking!  So, find a simple pattern (not necessarily a boring blazer), make the adjustments, sew it up in muslin to refine the fit and you'll be off and running.  Happy sewing!

   Karen

1. 
   JoesJez | Sep 18, 2007 11:26pm | #8

   When you look at ready to wear clothing - much of it is the exact same body shape but with modifications to sleeves length etc.  I am going to try to find a pattern with multiple back seams.  This seems to give a nice line but also can give additional "shape".  I used to think of myself as an hourglass figure but my middle has thickened quite a bit :-) 

1. 
   sewingkmulkey | Sep 18, 2007 11:37pm | #9

   That's an excellent idea!  I also like jacket patterns (and blouses) that have at least 3 pieces in the back as I use antique chinese silks that are usually only 14" wide.  There is a Sandra Batzina Vogue pattern that I just cut out that has multiple back pattern pieces (at least 5) that you might want to try.  Wish I could remember the number??  There are two lengths for the back - one that is very dramatic and uneven and the other is a regular short semi-fitted jacket with collar and cuffs.

7. 
   vickianne1 | Sep 20, 2007 10:11am | #10

   i made a jacket in vogue 2884 a vintage pattern.  each time I wear it, people always comment.  I don't like formal balzer patterns and this one looks good for work. I followed the directions (for a change) and it was quite easy to put together.

   Jude in Toowoomba

   http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2884.htm?tab=vintage_vogue&page=1

1. 
   JoesJez | Sep 21, 2007 01:25am | #12

   Oh I really like that!  Its not at all what I had in mind but I LOVE it!  I know if I just start making blazers and coats I will not stop.  I have been working on getting the perfect camisole and blazers would just complete the deal...

8. 
   nancynancy | Sep 20, 2007 09:12pm | #11

   Right now I'm working on Claire Schaeffer's Vogue 8400, which is a semi fitted collarless jacket with a vee neck, front darts, and a princess seamed back. Since the jacket has no collar, it's relatively easy to sew. To make it even easier I eliminated the pockets and  ribbon binding.  I think it's a great looking, classic but stylish and flattering pattern.