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Block + pattern issues

evergreen_xo | Posted in Fitting on

Hi everyone I’m in desperate need of some support from experienced sewers please!!

I took a class recently to make a perfect Sloper/block and it does indeed fit me very well. We drafted the pattern from scratch and then mocked up a calico for fitting and there were not any adjustments needed. During the class we were shown theory how to start making any new new clothes from scratch using this block.

Now at home alone, I’ve used the block to make up a very basic bodice pattern and calico. I added some ease to the side seam allowance, brought the armscye down by 3cm, brought the neckline down to a modest V and adjusted the sleeve cap accordingly to match the new armscye and seam, and the waist down to actual hip line where I’d wear a normal top.

I made up TWO patterns and TWO calico and same issue with both so I must have done something wrong along the way.

My shoulder seam is sitting too far back on my neck, and the bust dart is too high. You can see in the picture where it is pulling. Please does anyone have some clues to what I’ve done wrong on my “from scratch” pattern vs the block? I promise I traced everything perfectly in line!

Thank you so much


  1. Deleted | | #1


  2. evergreen_xo | | #2

    Picture now attached in comments

  3. evergreen_xo | | #3

    For some more context, original close fitting block has a front Princess dart shoulder to waist and back bodice has one large main waist dart and a smaller waist dart between that and the seam.

    I took out the princess dart by slash spread from the bust point to bring the shoulder together. This makes the shoulder seam 1cm larger at the back but I think this is normal and just needs to be eased in?

    Cut a new diagonal side dart, pivoting from the apex, kept the waist dart open in the pattern but did not sew it. Here is a very basic diagram.

    But I think the issue is at the shoulders because if that sat properly then the dart point would probably drop down to the proper position

  4. User avater
    [email protected] | | #4

    I would release the shoulder seam from the neck and pivot down from the end of the shouldered redraw the shoulder seam from there. that should drop the bust dart

  5. veras | | #5

    Is there any way for you to contact the instructor who taught the class for help? All of the instructors I’ve had leave their contact information and generously offer a zoom session or email or phone call I’d there are questions or issues to resolve. I’d start there, if at all possible.

  6. doesintensity | | #6

    A new diagonal side dart was cut, with the pivot point located at the apex. The waist dart was left open in the pattern, but it was not sewn dordle. The following is a very simple diagram.

  7. user-7884419 | | #7

    Hi Sam,
    I would advice you to look at classes from Suzy Furrer from Apparel Arts production (apparelartsproduction.com). You have a lot of changes made from your slopper. If you are doing a French dart, your apex should have been dropped by 3/4”. It looks to me that the shoulder dart didn’t get manipulated but you can always reduce the shoulder length the size you want. Also if you do a V neck, you might want to add a dart into the neckline on the pattern (manipulated after into French dart) to avoid gaping. If you are not interested on taking more classes, her book (see on her website) is fantastic. You will get all the basic “rules” to adjust a sloper.
    Good luck and happy sewing.

  8. csashop | | #8

    Part of the problem may be the seam allowance around the neck. It seems to be catching at the shoulder line. Can you release the seam in the seam allowance? That sounded weird. Basically, do not sew all the way thru the neck seam allowance. Stop where the seam allowance of the neckline meets the shoulder seam allowance. Or turn the seam allowance under. See it that helps.
    Or you may need to make the neckline 'wider' with a wider seam allowance especially at the high neck/shoulder point.

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