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Bluffed on Pockets

Annia | Posted in The Archives on

Read on a blog that Threads had an article on “bluffed on pockets” (lined and stitched on without stitching showing) a couple of years ago. So far I have not come across it and donot remember it and cannot bring it up on an online index search. Does anyone have a citation for it? 


  1. starzoe | | #1

    I know this pocket well, have used it a lot and just checked, still have a mock-up, but what I don't have is the issue number where I found it. Darn. Sorry, it's there somewhere. Sometimes the index is not quiet specific enough.

    1. Annia | | #2

      Thanks for your reply. In Threads, Nov. 2005 # 121 page 76 there is an answer in Q&A about how to do an unlined patch pocket sewn invisibly by machine. How do you do it with a lining?

      1. starzoe | | #3

        For what it is worth, this is what my mock-up shows: Obviously, two pockets are cut - one for the lining and one for the main fabric. There is a 5/8" s/a on each at the top, 5/8 all around for the main fabric, and ONE INCH on the lining.The lining and pocket are sewn, right sides together, across the top, and pressed with the lining about 3/8" below the fold (so that the lining won't show on the pocket top). The lining part is placed on the garment, rt sides tog. and SMALL ZIGZAGGED ON THE SEAMLINE, angling out a little at the top edge where the two pieces meet (I guess for stability).Next, the lining is then trimmed really close to the zigZag. The edges of the pocket MF are folded under and pressed, and is sewn down with a hemstitch and a hemstitch foot so that the tiny stitches run down the outside of the pocket, and the zigged stitch is catching the pocket MF. vvvvvVvvvvvVvvvvvVvvvvvVI know it has been years since this was published and it was probably in Threads; must have been at least ten years ago. I can remember doing this on winter jackets where the wool fabric hid the outside stitches and I remember when the "lining" I used on the mockup was left from a round tablecloth I made.....and that was long ago. Hope this is of some help.

        1. Annia | | #4

          Thanks for your reply and sharing the instructions. That helps. 

        2. Pattiann42 | | #5

          Cool graphic of a blind hem stitch, at least that's what my newest machine does something like: vvvVvvvV.  My old Bernina and Singer both did  ---V----V----V.

          I've used this method for attaching a patch pocket. 

          Back in the Stone Age, and before I found this method, I basted as close to the outside edge of the pocket as I could get, then turned it inside out (as best as I could) and hand stitched from the inside.

          Aren't technology and forums great!


  2. mainestitcher | | #6

    My copy of The Bishop Method of Sewing explains how this is done, too, if you or your library has a copy.

    1. Annia | | #7

      Thanks. I have the Bishop book. At http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/bluff_pockets.html unlike the Bishop Method, the photo  shows what appears to be no raw edges which is what I am trying to find the method for.

  3. DONNAKAYE | | #8

    I have the issue and re-read it lately, but I still do mine this way:

    Cut pockets of fashion fabric.  Make sure fashion fabric has about a 1" hem at the top (unless the top is shaped).  Lay fashion fabric, with hem turned under, onto a slightly larger square of lining fabric and cut or rip the lining to match.  It really doesn't matter if both are the same size.  In fact, the lining fabric can be a little bigger.  Right sides together, stitch the two fabrics together at the hemline of the pocket at about 1/4" (or let the edge of the presser foot ride along the edge of the fabric).  Turn seams downward, toward bottom of pocket, and understitch seams in place to lining.  Lay the pocket with attached lining onto the table, with the hem turned down and the two fabrics wrong sides together, with fashion fabric on top.  Trim off the excess lining to match the fashion fabric.  Flip the pocket over (face down) and then trim off a sliver of lining completely around the pocket (but do not trim any from the fashion fabric), back to nothing at the top fold of the pocket.  Turn the two fabrics right sides together at the top fold and stitch from fold to fold, lining up and fashion fabric down, easing fashion fabric into lining, and leaving about a 1-1/2 to 2" opening at the bottom or one side to turn through.  Clip corners, press seams well (and use a point creaser/turner of some kind to get a good pressing into the top corners) and turn through opening to right side.  If the fashion fabric was eased properly into the lining fabric, the fashion fabric will roll over slightly to the back side, and all the stitching and lining is now invisible.  Now you have a perfect pocket that can be attached with tiny hand stitches on the back side of the pocket (my preference in couture garments) or topstitched into place if you prefer.

    I'll try to go find the Threads issue you're talking about....

    1. Annia | | #9

      Thanks for the tutorial. Hoping to hear from you regarding the article citation and hoping it will come from a copy of Threads that I own. I do not have all of them.

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