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Boucle Fabric

WandaJ | Posted in Fabric and Trim on

I am seeking your input about an underlining for a puffed sleeve for a little girl’s dress. The dress is for my 7 year old granddaughter and my idea for it is to have a black boucle bodice and sleeve with a white silk dupioni skirt and collar. The skirt, near the hem will have an embroidery design in black and an excerpt from the skirt’s design will be placed on the collar to break up what might be the starkness of the white.

Thanks to all that respond to my inquiry.




  1. Josefly | | #1

    Oh, this sounds darling.

    Are the sleeves short? I assume you want an underlining to help the sleeves stay puffy? My first thought is silk organza, but you might try some of the dupioni, if it has enough body. Another thought is to make one of those little puffs - memory fails to produce the name of it - that fits inside the sleeve at the top of the cap, sewn into the sleeve-bodice seam allowance. Just a small gathered strip of stiffish fabric - sometimes tulle is used, but can be scratchy, so use something softer - and tapered at the ends, to hold up the gathering of the sleeve.

    Please share with a photo when finished.

    1. KharminJ | | #2

      Just looking at the Victoria & Albert Museum site (from another thread here, imagine that?) (VA - can't find the tread now! Its original topic was something else entirely, of course!)and they mentioned using a satin lining under a fluffy tulle or net underskirt, to "keep from running the wearer's stockings"! ('60's fashion)Here's that thread, with the VA link: "Batik fabric- info wanted", post number 9286.24 Thus: Net or tulle or organza puffiness, with an innerlining to contain it? Sounds lovely, anyway!Kharmin

      Edited 12/6/2008 3:07 pm ET by KharminJ

      1. Josefly | | #3

        Yes, an inner lining would protect the skin from a scratchy "puff" but then the sleeve lining would have to be different from the sleeve pattern, to sit inside the puff. Without a separate sleeve-lining pattern, I'm not sure how that's accomplished, but that may be the appropriate thing to do. If the sleeve is very puffy, the little puff might stand up enough not to be irritating, though.Actually, that was my posting you referred to, with the V&A site. Found the photo by "Googling" natch, but didn't spend any time exploring the site further than the "sack". I'll have to go back and look again. Thanks.Edited 12/6/2008 3:23 pm ET by Josefly

        Edited 12/6/2008 3:25 pm ET by Josefly

    2. WandaJ | | #4

      Yes, the sleeves are short and puffy, but you know by now that I'm not using the boucle and that I changed to silk because I believe it makes for a better combination of fabric weights.

      I had planned to make a lining out of the dupioni and, then changed my mind. Getting lazy and running a tight finish line...However, after reading the information in this thread I am back to lining them to help with the sleeves ability to stand up a bit. Oh, I know what your are talking about, are they called sleeveheads? If so, I had planned to make one out of a lightweight material. Too, I interfaced the upper portion of the sleeve above the armscye, and that is helping already.

      Well, I'm off here for now and going to make the sleeves that we are talking about.

      Oh, with regard to the picture, it will be a minute before I can post, as I don't know how to do that! I will have my niece to take the picture and place it in this thread. I would like to share it with you because it is a rich combination of red dupioni/a shimmer of black coupled with the soft black velvet.

      1. Josefly | | #5

        Sounds gorgeous. I look forward to seeing a photo.

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