Center Back Seam and Crotch Hook Shape
I’ve been working on pants, wore them last week, and saw a need for more tweeks. The waist was a little too big and I’ve corrected that but now I see two other areas that need tweeking in the back.
The center back seam, starting at about or below the hip line and some of the CF seam seem to be resting a little to the left of the gluteal crease and crotch. The CB and CF seam isn’t centered on me. What do I do?
I’m noticing a diagonal wrinkle on the right back pant leg. The wrinkle is higher at the side seam and then dips down and inward around the knee area. If I pull the right side seam up or push it down at the waist, the wrinkle doesn’t disappear. However, if I keep my legs straight and bend forward at the waist (a few inches), the wrinkle disappears. In fact, when I’m leaning forward, the area below the hip and crotch near the CB seam hangs perfectly (with the exception of what I described in the paragraph above.) The pants are creased and the creases hang straighter when I lean forward at the torso. Is this a problem with the crotch hook? Something else? What do I do?
Are you sure that you cut them on grain??
I'm certain I have. I've also found if I just pull the top of the center back seam up about 3/4-1", all wrinkles disappear on the right back leg and the pants hang better all around. However, if you have any further insight, please post it.
I've corrected where the CB was fitting me about 1/4" to the left of center. I'm thankful for that. These pants have given me a new understanding on fitting.
Again, if you have further insight, please post it.
Thanks again. (I remember you answering many of my posts.)
It is not at all unusual to encounter the problems that you have. Lowering the waistband in the CB one inch and then tapering to the side seams to correct your wrinkle problems is exactly what I would have suggested, so your instincts are good! Of course, you may have to correct for that at the hem and extend the back darts to make up for what you took out. Also, your CB and CF not lining up means that one side of your body is a little bit larger than the other- again, perfectly normal. Happy sewing! - Janet
Thanks for your post. I'm fairly new at the wonderful world of fitting, however, I have a question regarding your post. My thinking is that when I pull the CB seam up at the top of the waistband (the wrinkle disappears and the pants hang better), I'm to lengthen the CB 1 inch. I noticed you said to lower it 1 inch.
Is this some what of a rule I'm not understanding? If the garment fits better when pulled in one direction, let's say "up", the rule of thumb is to decrease the length of the seam as you suggested? If this is correct, this may be why I'm still having problems with this area!
Please verify this for me! I was about to retire my pants, alter the pattern and buy more fabric.
Thank you very much again.
If you're pulling the seam up, you're shortening it (removing extra fabric which is causing wrinkles), therefore, lowering the waistband in back. This is a common alteration I make on many of my customers' pants as well as my own. If the crotch feels tight, you may need to add the inch at the back inseam. To be sure, pin a piece of elastic at your waist, then measure your total crotch length from bottom of elastic in front to bottom of elastic in back. Compare the measurement to,your pants and see if you need more or less. Pants fitting is tricky, but worth the effort, because once you get a pattern that fits, you can make any kind of pant! Good luck...
Thank you, Janet. I appreciate your response.
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