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Charmeuse for lining a jacket?

jatman | Posted in Fabric and Trim on

I’m getting ready to make a lined jacket out of a silk matka fabric and the only material I’ve found that I like for lining it is a silk charmeuse but I’ve heard this fabric is very slippery and difficult to sew with so I’m hesitant to get it for the lining.  I don’t want to make it any more difficult that it has to be.  Does anyone have any advice for me as far as choosing a lining?

JT

Replies

  1. HeartFire2 | | #1

    you will love the silk charmeuse. it's really not difficult to sew with,
    First, make sure you have a surface where you can lay out the fabric so there is not tension on it (its not falling off the table) if you don't have a large enough area, you can cut the fabric into more manageable size pieces. make sure the grain is straight. lay out your pieces.

    Now, if you have a tracing wheel with a serrated edge you can can often just roll it along the SEWING lines (not cutting lines) (you will have to draw in the sewing lines on the paper pattern) and mark you fabric that way. It does take pressure and the line is faint but you should be able to see it. (I do this in single layers so there is no shifting between the two layers). Now, cut out the fabric, if the piece gets a little out of shape while handling it, you still have precise sewing lines marked and can match them up without having to worry about seam allowances not matching
    Good luck

    1. jatman | | #2

      Thank you for that advice!  Will the charmeuse snag much?  That's the other thing I'm a bit worried about - that it will snag on my ring, watch, etc. as I take the jacket on and off.  I'll probably just need to be a little careful as I would be with any silk.

      JT

  2. zuwena | | #3

    One other suggestion that I was just told about and seen done but have not yet tried myself.  If you can get hold of a roll of pattern paper (newsprint paper may be substituted), draw a grain line.  Line up the fabric selvage along the drawn grain line, pin the two together in various strategic places to make sure it holds.  Place your pattern on the the fabric as you would normally, pin and cut through fabric and paper as one.  Z 

    1. jatman | | #4

      That sounds like a good idea and I have a whole roll of pattern paper so it would be problem.  Thank you for the advice!

      JT

  3. From my Stash.... | | #5

    Heartfire is right. If you love the look and feel of it, don't let that stop you from using it. I didn't realize its reputation when I started to work with it years ago - one situation where ignorance was bliss - but it is slippery when cutting out and the suggestions given earlier were great. Make sure you use a new needle to ensure that it won't catch as you sew. As to catching your rings when putting the jacket on or off, I haven't found that to be a problem. If it is a problem for you, try rotating your ring so that the raised stones are cupped in your fingers and then put your arm into the sleeve. This should help with the problem. I actually have more problem with chain bracelets catching on my silk tweed and boucle jacket cuffs.

    1. jatman | | #6

      Thank you for your input.  I'll go back to the fabric store and look again (it's one of those that has a TON of fabrics so I may have missed something) if I can't find anything else I think I'll just go for it!

      JT

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