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Choosing a lining fabric

JamieLiz | Posted in Fabric and Trim on

Hello all. I’m new to this forum so please pardon me if I’m not doing this right.

I’m getting ready to make a Loes Hinse unlined jacket from a wool/linen blend. I would like to add my own lining. I’m thinking a very lightweight lining fabric would be the right thing, but I don’t know anything about the choices for linings, how to match the the right lining to the garment fabric etc. I would appreciate any suggestions, or a pointer to any articles or books that would help me understand the choices and decide on the right lining material for this project.



  1. Palady | | #1

    Welcome to Gatherings.  Always nice to have new folks in the pool.

    Your post >> ... would like to add my own lining .. <<  leads me to think the pattern calls for the construction without one.

    Before I would comfortably suggest a lining fabric, I'd  prefer seeing the design.  I went to the site.  Which jacket are you wanting to sew?


    The reason I ask, is the jacket may fit and drape just a bit differently with a lining.  Though with a structured jacket adding a lining is less an issue.




    1. JamieLiz | | #2

      The jacket is the Milano, view A (regular sleeve). I think this jacket is a little more structured than some of her others, and I understand her reasoning for not recommending a lining in these unstructured styles. But considering the fabric I've chosen for this, I'd like to give it a lining. The fabric can be seen here: http://store.sawyerbrook.com/Killary_p_31-282.html&catid=3

      1. Josefly | | #3

        That's a lovely jacket and it will be beautiful with your fabric. I can't answer your broader question - about where you might find general information about matching lining fabrics with fashion fabrics and patterns. But I think I would choose a silk for lining. Charmeuse is slippery and hard to work with but I think it would be beautiful with your fabric.

      2. Palady | | #8

        Count me among the replies you've already received.  Light weight.  The fabric shows up on my screen quite beautifully.  An effort you'll be proud to wear.


        1. JamieLiz | | #9

          Thanks again to everyone for your helpful replies in this thread. I've got my hands on some Bemberg swatches and I think this looks great for my jacket. I wanted to go with silk, but I can see now that it won't be easy to find a silk to match this fabric by mail order.Now I have another question, if you don't mind just one more. Should I look for something lighter, darker, or about the same shade as the garment? Are there any general "dos and don'ts" to follow when choosing a lining color? My first thought is I should pick something slightly darker for more opaqueness to hide the inside seams etc. Or maybe it's better to go with something similar to the jacket color so it's not so noticeable when the jacket is open? Any advice? -Jamie

          1. User avater
            ThreadKoe | | #10

            Depends on how flashy you want to go! Usually you go for whatever a good colour match that suits your fancy, and disguises the inner workings of the jacket. Other than that, whatever works. Just remember that when your jacket is open, whatever you wear will show against the lining. I have seen both lighter and darker linings. I have seen a colour picked up from a tweed. I have seen a contrasting colour as well. It is whatever you are comfortable with. A darker colour tends to hide wear marks and dirt a little longer than a light colour if that helps. Cathy

          2. JamieLiz | | #11

            Excellent. Thank you so much. The lining color I'm looking at is darker than the fabric, but not black dark, and it picks up the darker colored thread in the fabric blend. I blind-hemstitched the swatch to the fabric to see it together and I think it will be good. Btw, that Bemberg sews beautifully -- like buttah! I'm gonna like working with it.I'll try my hand at posting pics when I get further along with this.

          3. User avater
            ThreadKoe | | #12

            Bemburg is my fav to work with. Prefer it over anything else. It is nice to wear also! Please do post pics as I am curious to see how it turns out. Glad to be of some help. Cathy

          4. Josefly | | #14

            I can't tell from the photo of your lovely fabric how much show-through there is. One consideration in using the darker lining is whether it will emphasize the look of the seams - Have you folded your fashion fabric and placed it over the darker lining to see if the doubled seam allowances will be obvious? If the darker lining shows through a single layer of fabric at all, but doesn't show through doubled fabric, this might be an issue for you.

          5. JamieLiz | | #15

            Josefly -- Thanks for bringing this up. I don't think there is any transparency in this fabric I'm using, but I will check to be sure before I cut the lining. At any rate, it's a good thing to know for my future projects.

          6. JamieLiz | | #16

            Josefly -- I checked on the "show through" and I'm only a little confused. The fashion fabric is about as loosely woven as an average linen, so held against strong light (daylight thru window) you can see the seam, with and without lining(since the lining is dark, but sheer). Held against the ironing table, or against what I'm wearing under indoor light, I cannot see the seam, with or without lining. So, while wearing the jacket, the lining should not show through. Is this what I'm looking for?

          7. Josefly | | #17

            Most fabrics would have some light show through if held up to a light source, but I was thinking more of color show-through than just light. If you can't tell a difference in the apparent color of your fashion fabric when there are two layers vs. one layer over the lining, and it sounds as though there is none, then it should be fine. I'm excited for you - you're really going to enjoy that jacket.

  2. User avater
    ThreadKoe | | #4

    Hi JamieLiz, and Welcome to Gatherings!
    You are right when you wanted a very lightweight lining for this jacket. Lining a jacket does a couple of things. It finishes the inside of the jacket. It aids in the putting on and off of the garment. It adds weight and body, or reduces sheerness in a garment. To choose a lining, you need to consider the weight of the fabric, the intended use, and the content of the face fabric. In this case, you definitely want something light weight. Because it is a beautiful natural fibre blend, something in a natural fibre, such as a silk, or a rayon would be best. The rest is basically up to you. You could use a nice silk dress weight fabric, a silk lining, Ambiance or Bemburg rayon lining fabric. It could be plain or printed. You need to choose one that suits the weight of the fabric, without changing the final hand desired too much, but how fancy inside is up to you. The lining fabric should allow you to slide the jacket on over other tops easily. Lining is as simple as that. I hope this is the info. that you are looking for. Cathy

    1. JamieLiz | | #5

      Josefly and Threadkoe -- Thanks very much for the information. It is exactly what I was looking for. I've seen the Ambiance and Bemburg mentioned online but wasn't sure if it was right for what I'm doing. I will try to get a sample set so I can see the colors. Even though it might be difficult to work with, I'm really intrigued with the idea of a silk lining. I think it might be just the match for the lovely jacket fabric. Thanks again for giving me something to go on with this.

      1. Josefly | | #6

        Please keep us posted on what you decide to use and how it works for you. I hope we can see pictures of your finished jacket.

      2. User avater
        ThreadKoe | | #7

        I am not so sure silk would be any more difficult to work with. A natural fibre would be easier to work with than a polyester because it would hold the shape better when pressing. Linings tend to be fairly closely woven fabric, so should not be difficult to work with. Satin linings are shiftier than a plain weave, but are still not bad to work with. Check out a few samples of different kinds before you make your final choice. Cathy

  3. Teaf5 | | #13

    Don't forget that you'll lose some of the ease of a jacket if you add a lining to an unlined pattern. On a loosely structured jacket, it's not so critical, but on fitted ones, an added lining can make the jacket a full size smaller than intended.

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