Replies

1. 
   ElonaM | Dec 06, 2004 11:01am | #1

   Have you browsed the online catalogues, such as Vogue, Butterick, and McCall's, all at http://www.butterick.com? There's also http://www.simplicity.com, and you can find some rarer lines at http://www.thesewingplace.com.

   Many patterns are reviewed and garments modeled by their creators at http://www.patternreview.com, too.

   
   

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   Edited 12/6/2004 3:02 am ET by Elona

1. 
   Karen2 | Dec 07, 2004 12:34am | #2

   Thank you so much for clueing me in on "the sewing place" and "pattern review." Both sites offer such variety and sites that will be visited and revisited. I did find a pattern, Vogue #7754, that might do the trick, although shoulder pads are suggested which aren't my favorite. Please advise me of any other ideas you may have. Karen

1. 
   ElonaM | Dec 07, 2004 08:00am | #3

   You are sort of new to sewing, yes? If that is the case, I will suggest this pattern,http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/mccallspatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.M4079=x&TI='4079'&pageNum=1even though I don't normally recommend McCall's. The reason I am doing it is this time is that this one is a "Palmer and Pletsch" pattern. This McCall's series tends to be just superb in terms of fitting and construction details. Each pattern is pretty much a little tutorial in an envelope. This particular one has collars with and without a stand, and several sleeve options, plus bazillions of instructions and tips in the construction sheet.Each company has a size chart, usually at the very back of the big, fat pattern catalogue. Do not rely on your ready-to-wear size! There's no relationship--none whatsoever--between RTW and sewing pattern sizes. Before you decide which size to use, take your measurements honestly. If you are larger than a B cup, choose the size by your "high bust measurement," which is taken under the armpits, above the breasts. This measurement addresses your rib cage, your bone structure, which is essentially constant, in contrast to breast size, which varies amazingly, of course. If needed, you can make what is called a "full bust adjustment," and I believe that this alteration is covered in detail in this particular pattern.It is a good idea to trace your pattern off the original, because you may have to do some alterations which would make it impossible to re-use the original. By the way, it's perfectly OK to trace between the lines, if, say, your bust is one "size," and your waist and hips are another.

1. 
   Karen2 | Dec 07, 2004 07:02pm | #4

   Thanks for the tips on using the Palmer/Pletch patterns. I recently completed the Palmer/Pletch pattern #2538 which was a pretty successful event. However, the two front pleats at the front part of the yoke made the blouse look too full and the ease of the sleeve to the blouse body was too full, but I did like the collar look. The finished sleeve width was also, too big. All of this was done from a new sheet just to get a fit. Acutally, the fabric looked pretty good and the blouse looks great on a hangar! I like the pattern you suggested and do appreciate your response. I'm wondering if the Palmer/Pletch patterns run a bit big?I have done a lot of sewing in the past and have tailored suits, jackets, etc.,most often using Vogue patterns but in recent years sewing has taken a back burner to many other pursuits. Golf seems to be the main one! So I guess I am new to sewing in some respects. I certainly appreciate any help I can get. I will take a closer look at Palmer/Pletch altering tips on the pattern pieces as you suggested. Thanks again. Karen

1. 
   ElonaM | Dec 07, 2004 07:39pm | #5

   It's not just that P & P patterns run big--virtually ALL McCall's tend to run biggish, in my experience. Until recently, this was very true of Simplicity: Three sizes--big, bigger, and biggest! Because of this (and clunky instructions), I have stayed away from these lines for years, but recent reviews of new patterns at http://www.patternreview.com hint that Simplicity might be going for a more exact fit.Many patterns give you, on the back of the envelope, the finished girth at the hem for each size. Vogue often has the finished bust and hip measurement printed on the pattern piece itself, which helps. That said, however, even after you have chosen your pattern size, it's a prudent idea to do a flat pattern measure, where you check the dimensions of your pattern not only against your own measurements, but also against the amount of ease (wiggle room) you like. For example, my bust is 38," and I know that I like my tees to measure 39," but for most blouses, I prefer at least 42." It's good to know how long your shoulder seam is, as well as the distance from the bump at the base or your neck down to your wrist. Also your bicep, and wrist circumference. In general, the more measurements you have on file, the better.Do you have a nice fitting book, like "Fit For Real People," by Palmer and Alto?

2. 
   Karen2 | Dec 08, 2004 04:27am | #6

   Thanks again for the pattern information. Three sizes - big, bigger, and biggest. That is funny! I have only recently learned about "pattern review" and it is an unbelievable site. I like your idea of doing a flat pattern measure to check dimensions against yourself and also to determine the ease. What I'm wondering about is how to correct ####pattern so that the shoulder dimension from the neck to the shoulder is correct? If there is a yoke in the pattern I'm guessing you could fare a line on the pattern at right angles to the shoulder line to shorten that length? This, though, would then require that the sleeve pattern be altered. I am also curious about how sleeves are inserted. In the past, really past, I have eased the sleeve into the body before sewing the side seams and the sleeve seams. This method was most successful. However, in the Palmer/Pletsch pattern the side seams are sewed first. There just seems to be too much ease - at least in the blouse pattern I recently used. I will definitely be looking for the fitting book you suggested and I certainly value your input. Karen

3. 
   ElonaM | Dec 08, 2004 06:37am | #7

   You mean the pattern's shoulder length is longer than yours?Shoulder seam lengths in adult women average around 4.75" to 5." If the shoulder line is not very dropped or extended, Nancy Zieman has a pivot and slide technique that you can use (she has a number books), but is not really workable when the shoulders are very extended or dropped, because then you'd need major alteration of the sleeve head, a PITA. Under those circumstances, I would look for another pattern with normal shoulders.On yoked patterns, the shoulder line is often marked on it in some way, maybe with a dashed line, or a notch or dot at the real shoulder. In that case, I'd pin the pattern pieces together just on the front and back yoke seams and then lay the pattern out flat on the cutting board. You'll have a front at one end, a yoke in the middle, and a back on the other end, which will give you a good view of the armscye's contour. Now, what I'd do in this case is not orthodox, but it would involve marking my ideal shoulder on the real shoulder line of the yoke, and then using a French Curve (a special curved ruler) to blend and shape the armhole seamline from the new shoulder back out to the original seamline at the front and back bottom of the armhole. This particular alteration should probably not be more than half an inch or so.Regarding sleeve head fullness: A sleeve cap should be about 3/4" to 1 1/2" fuller than the armscye it's supposed to fit into. If your sleeve cap is bigger than that, it is possible to shorten it, but that's a pain, because you have to shorten the cap, eyeball the curve of the seamline to shorten it properly, and then change the length of the sleeve, too. Once again, I'd get another pattern.In the recent past, fashion dictated a dropped or extended shoulder. Because of this, the sleeve cap could be lower and flatter, and pretty much without ease. This made it very easy to insert the sleeve before doing the side seams. More ease is necessary for a high, fitted shoulder, because it's shaped to fit the curved top of your shoulder. This is more the current fashion. The general concept is that you get a more prettily-shaped cap of this type when the sleeve is set in after the side seams are sewn. Sometimes, you can get away with doing it flat, though, especially for a casual shirt. You can try pinning the sleeve in before sewing the side seams, and if the edges go together nicely, you could probably sew it "flat."I'd like to recommend another excellent book for you regarding these fit issues. There's another fine Singer book called "The Perfect Fit." It has lots and lots of instructions and photos for measuring and altering dress and blouse patterns.Would you by any chance be French? I ask that because of your phrase, "...you could fare ('faire'?) a line"

   Edited 12/8/2004 12:49 am ET by Elona

4. 
   Karen2 | Dec 09, 2004 03:29am | #9

   Have you written any sewing books? Your explanations are wonderful and I'm sure others are enjoying them as well. I like your idea of pinning the pattern pieces together and then using a French curve to scribe a desired sewing line. This is what I meant by the word "fare" which probably should have been spelled "fair." Part of my background in in math and drawing so I know exactly what you mean and I have a multitude of French curves. Isn't "faire" the French verb "to make?" No, I'm not French. From your description of sleeves I would enjoy a somewhat dropped sleeve, not so much because any associated difficulty in sewing but, rather, I would like to get away from the appearance of what I call too much ease. I guess I didn't realize that a dropped sleeve would allow this. You are so very talented and I am so appreciative. I will be looking for "The Perfect Fit." Karen

5. 
   ElonaM | Dec 09, 2004 07:24pm | #11

   You are very kind. No, I've been sewing for centuries, but have never written a book (I do tend to run on a bit, though). But don't we who sew have to support each other? There aren't very many of us.

6. 
   Karen2 | Dec 10, 2004 04:29am | #12

   You can run on anytime with me! I'll let you know how the blouse comes out, but first I have to get all of this holiday stuff completed. Thanks again, Karen

2. 
   SewNancy | Dec 08, 2004 07:46am | #8

   You can remove the shoulder pads by taking out half the height at  front and back of  shoulder and take a fold across the top of the sleeve head  the height of the shoulder pad.  Easy to adjust shoulders for shoulder pads.  I have often added room for pad.

   Nancy

   Edited 12/7/2004 11:47 pm ET by Nancy

1. 
   Karen2 | Dec 09, 2004 03:33am | #10

   This is something I had not thought possible, but something that looks very plausible. I would like to have a blouse to wear under a suit type jacket and not have more bulk with additional pads. Thank you for the tip. Karen