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Collar/Neck alteration with Shoulder alteration for sleeveless

mommasew | Posted in Fitting on

Making a sleeveless, button-front top with rolled  collar (no collar stand). Description: Top button is 9-1/2″ down from neck point (shoulder seam) on original garment pattern. 1st Alteration: the shoulder seam needed be pinched out 1/2″ from shoulder point to neck edge (helps with gaposis in armscye which was too large, and took out diagonal excess fabric in bodice front, horizontal in back, also made bust darts line up at correct angle/height). However, this created front and back pattern pieces that do not line up well. Where should the seam & allowances be added/subtracted from to smooth the alteration for sewing?
2nd Alteration: To the rolled collar. Alteration #1 shortens the collar by 1″ on left, 1″ on right (1/2″ front & back, left and right). Can this be done for it to lay properly, while turning the lapel of front bodice as is meant to?

Or other suggestions to make this narrow neck, shoulder, sleeveless armscye look great?


  1. Taunton_Web | | #1

    Can you post images of the garment to help us visualize the issue?


    1. mommasew | | #2

      Hello, here is a 'muslin' with binder clipped shoulder which helped reduce bulk of fabric. This raised the side bust dart to proper height. Will want the neck edge/collar smoothed.

      1. User avater
        blbirdsong | | #6

        Instead of removing the excess length right at the shoulder seam, you might want to remove the amount from a line you draw horizontally across the front and back bodice pieces. That way your shoulder seams will still match. If this adjustment is low enough not to interfere with your neckline/collar area, there might not be a need for a collar adjustment. But your adjustment #2 for the collar may be necessary.

  2. tiffanyfox | | #3

    It may also be possible that you have shoulder sockets that are more forward. I was always tugging my necklines 0f egirl outfits back into place until here I needed that particular alteration.

  3. User avater
    bettystitch | | #4

    I hope you’ve already found this answer but it solved the problem for me. Look for instructions for Forward Shoulder Alteration. That will change the tilt of the shoulder seam without affecting the length of the seams.

  4. Humus2k | | #5

    I wouldn't personally try to change my knit tees if I didn't have a serge and were skilled at the same time, even if some people are going to work with a regular sewing machine. I'd take them to a faithful tailor. If the tailor thinks it's high maintenance, it doesn't matter. S/likely he's happy at all times for the rather simple task. I think it's ludicrous that it's highly maintenance able for crybaby fashion at this site. If I had her money, I'd do the same if she is small business supporting, what wouldn't I like?

  5. petersmark | | #7

    Even if some people plan on working with a regular sewing machine, I personally would not alter my knit tees if I didn't have a serger and wasn't skilled. My tailor would do the job for me. No matter what the tailor thinks, it won't matter. I suspect that he's always happy with the task at hand. It is absurd that crybaby clothing is highly maintainable on this website . Having her money, I would do the same if she is supporting small businesses. What's not to like?

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