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Collars

gogojojo | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I’m making a shirt with a pointed collar from a Burda pattern.  I can’t get the collar to look right – the points aren’t pointy enough, and the seams won’t lie flat, despite trimming the seam allowances and corners.  Does anyone know of a good article/book on the subject, prefereably with lots of pictures?  Thanks in advance.

Replies

  1. solosmocker | | #1

    Nancy Zieman addresses this in one of her books but I think it might be out of print. When one of her books goes OOP it is because a newer better version comes out under a different title. Perhaps a trip to her site or another can help here. She folds the corners on the seam line before turning the points. I have also learned the hard way to always measure the length of the strait edge of the collar right before attaching to the shirt so that the points are even.
    Bunny

  2. KathleenFasanella | | #2

    Based on past experience, I don't expect many people to like this response but this is how it's *really* done in sewing factories: you take _one_ stitch catty corner at the tip. It's counter-intuitive but it works, just try it on some scrap.

    Oh, and it helps if the corner you're trying to turn has been fused.

    1. gogojojo | | #6

      thanks for the advice about the diagonal stitch in the corners.  forgive me for sounding dumb, (i'm only experienced in marine canvas and upholstery sewing) but what do you mean by the corner being "fused"?  i did use fusible interfacing...is that what you mean?

      1. KathleenFasanella | | #9

        Yes, I'm sorry. I meant fusible interfacing.

    2. solosmocker | | #12

      I have seen this demonstrated a few times on TV by Betzina and Zieman. I use this technique myself.

  3. lovemycottons | | #3

    The technique Kathleen Fasanella suggested is also in the Vogue Sewing Book, maybe not using the same terminology but the technique is still the same, one stitch "catty corner" at the point.

  4. mem | | #4

     I also stitch one stitch across the cornerand then when you are trimming the corners cut off across the ends and then taper into theresulting blunt  point This removes all the bulk out of the corner. . I also press the seams opne first and then press them cosed on the right side . Also try rimming 1/8/of aninch off the under collar anthen stitching it to the top collar with edges meeting. This means that when you turn it right side out the over collar forms the edge rather than the seam which is much easier to press into a nice sharp edge .

    1. gogojojo | | #7

      thanks for the tips, everyone....i will practice all of these methods with scrap material and, if the finished product is not too embarrassing, i'll post pics.

      1. Beth | | #8

        The one stitch across the corner technique doesn't work for me because I cannot see well enough to make the stitches identical on both collar points. That is, the pressure foot is in the way. The points need to be visually even and so I sew to the end of the collar in each direction. This makes a cross at the corner. this is detailed in: Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses by Connie Long.

        Not affiliated.

        Beth

      2. mem | | #11

        The other thing i forgot to mention is that as I approach the corner I reduce the size of the stitches.

  5. Megh | | #5

    I use a different method; one I learned several years ago.  Unfortunately, I cannot remember the source, so I can't give credit.  This method eliminates the seam at the front edge, so you do not have to deal with stitching into and out of the point.  I hope that I can explain it well enough for you:

    Your pattern piece is in the shape of your collar ~ with the center back line in the center of the piece, two pointy things at each end.  Cut the pattern piece directly on the center back line.  Tape the two collar-point edges together overlapping the seam lines.  Add a seam allowance to one of the center back edge.  This makes the pattern piece look sort of like a boomerang.

    Lay your pattern piece on your fabric with the center back (the one without the seam allowance you just added) on the fold of the fabric.  Cut out the piece.  To construct, stitch the two center back seams, press open.  Then match the seam line and the folded center back; stitch the single long edge.  Press, thrim, and turn.  The top collar is on the straight of grain, the under collar is on the bias, and  you don't have a bundle of fabric at the front edge of the collar points.  Your collar should turn out better than before!

    Meg

    1. Josefly | | #10

      I'm just lurking on this thread, but I have to say I can't wait to try this technique with a collar. It sounds very clever! Thanks for the description; I'm e-mailing your comment to myself.

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