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Creating a Moulage

EileenB5 | Posted in Fitting on

In the last issue of Threads, there was a reference to French Pattern drafting, or creating a moulage.  I  have made slopers and from standard pattern shells, but this was from your actual measurements.  I can’t find any other info on how to do it other than a fellow by the name of Kenneth King occasionally puts on seminars to teach his method.  Does anyone know of any good reference material??




  1. dpcoffin | | #1

    The term "moulage" (meaning "mold" in French) is used by Kenneth King and others to describe the fitting method they learned from a teacher in San Francisco named Simone, who learned the method in France...

    As you mention, it uses body measurements to make an ease-less "second skin" pattern, from which slopers are made by adding ease. Short of moving to California and enrolling in Simone's school, the only other way to learn the method that I know of is to take a class with Kenneth. But, he tells me that he is nearing completion of a self-published digital book on the subject, complete with video demonstrations. He hopes to have it ready by this September; you can contact him for more information at [email protected]

    David Coffin

  2. ClaireDuffy | | #2


    I have emailed K.K. and found him to be prompt in reply and very interested. He hasn't finished his Book/CD ON MOULAGE BUT HAS PUT ME ON HIS LIST TO RECEIVE IT .I'm sure he'd be happy to hear from you too.

    CLAIRE in Oz

    1. EileenB5 | | #3


      Thanks for your note.  I did in fact e-mail him and I too am on the list.  I was also looking for his older book Designer Techniques, which is now out of print. (you can get it used on Amazon or e-bay for $189, must be a super book!!) Anyway he has put that on CD as well, so I sent in my check and am awaiting it's arrival. 8>).

      Have you taken any of his classes?  I took some flat pattern design classes several years ago when I lived in Chicago. We used the Vogue basic pattern to make slopers and then fitted them individually.  I find the idea of making a sloper from your own measurements interesting and seems to eliminate an unnecessary step.  The only problem will be to find someone to help take my measurements.  I'm not sure my hesband has the patients!


      1. customsewer | | #4

        Moulage products available from Kenneth King!

        I want to thank the previous posters on this thread, especially for including Mr. King's email address. I used it the day before yesterday, and he replied immediately. The CD-ROM books are available for purchase. I've sent my order, and will post my impressions of the products as soon as I've had a chance to work with them. For anyone else who is seeking info, here is what he emailed me:

        --------------------------------------------------------------Kenneth King has released two more books on CD!

           THE MOULAGE, a CD book (130 pages) and video measurement demonstrationon CD-ROM, $24.95 US (shipping included in the US)By Kenneth D. King

           The moulage is the foundation of the pattern drafting system taught bythe Ecole Guerre-Lavigne in Paris. This is a system of measuring the figure,calculating, and drafting a pattern that will fit the torso like a secondskin, incorporating any of the infinite variations of shape the human figurecan take.

           The book starts out with an introduction and some history of thedevelopment of pattern drafting systems.  This is followed by a discussionof the proper way to measure the figure, for this system.  The CD-ROM, whichis made for QuickTime Player, shows a video demonstration of thesemeasurements.

             Calculations of the measurements follow. Measurements are in bothinches, and metric. The book then proceeds to show, step by step, how todraft the moulage back, then the front.  Common adjustments to the muslin isnext, followed by instructions on drafting the men¹s moulage.

           From the Moulage the book will cover how to add wearing ease to createthe sloper, or block (the basic unit of pattern drafting).  A chapter on³special cases² follows, covering unusual situations such as osteoporosis.

           Finally A discussion of how to use your sloper to check a commercialpattern will enable you to use this tool as a fitting aid, making it easierto adjust patterns to your figure.

           This book uses Adobe Acrobat Reader, which you can download for freefrom http://www.adobe.com   The CD-ROM video uses Quick Time Player, which you candownload for free  from http://www.apple.com

           The follow-up to this book is, The Basic Sleeve

        THE BASIC SLEEVE, a CD book, 89 pages, $19.95 US (shipping included in theUS)

           Once you get your slopers, you will need a sleeve.  This book continueswith the Ecole Guerre-Lavigne system, to draft the three most basic set-insleeves:  Shirt sleeve, fitted sleeve with elbow dart, and two-part tailoredsleeve.

           Before drafting these sleeves, there are calculations to be done togenerate the values for the draft.  Inches and metric are both used here.The three sleeves are demonstrated with step-by-step illustrations that willlead you through the entire draft.

           Finally a discussion of common adjustments to the sleeve, and otherconsiderations, are covered.

           This book also uses Adobe Acrobat Reader, which you can download forfree from http://www.adobe.com


        Make a check payable to:

           Kenneth D. King   1156 Howard   San Francisco, CA 94103


           415)861-1454 fax

           or email me at::   [email protected]Please allow 3 weeks shipping

        ³COOL TRICKS, or the book formerly known as Designer Techniques² $19.95(shipping included in the US)

           This book is a re-issue with update of my first book, which waspublished in 1996.  The book is 128 pages, a and covers topics such as:

           Working with specialty fabrics, such as velvet, faille, moiré, andottoman

           Edge finishes for fine fabrics

           Piping for apparel and home


           The tailored Shoulder

           Select embellishments for home and apparel

           Finishing touches, such as tassel construction, and handbagconstruction.

        Revisions include:

             The foolproof double-welt buttonhole and pocket

           The 5-minute lapped zipper application

        You can order the book by sending a check or money order to:

           Kenneth D. King   1156 Howard   San Francisco, CA 94103

        Please allow 3 weeks shipping


        1. customsewer | | #5

          Just wanted to let everyone know that I did order & receive the "Moulage" CD -- with really great service -- about 4 days from mailing my check until receiving CD.

          Since then I've been swamped & haven't had time to unwrap the product until today. However, now I've got printed out the Adobe file that contains the book, & hope to get working with this very soon.

          1. ShannonG4d | | #6

            Just stumbled across this thread.....I have made a moulage using the CD book and instructions.  With a minor tweak due to a slightly assymetric figure, it fit perfectly the first try!  The instructions are clear, charmingly written, and the diagrams are excellent.  If you have any interest in making a custom sloper, I highly recommend using this method.

            I have also made three others, and they fit on the first try......


          2. marbuesong | | #7

            Hi Shannon,  Have also bought Kenneth King's CD and found it excellent.  Have useda similar method in a previous life but his instructions are much clearer with more detailed measurements. Hope everyone who buys it finds it as useful as I have.

            Marbu Esong

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