I’ve been sewing and pattern drafting for some years, but have never learned how to draft a sleeve pattern from scratch (somehow that chapter was omitted from the pattern drafting book I have). I can draft new types of sleeves from slopers, but I’m not at all sure how to draft a pattern for someone with heavier upper arms. I’ve not sewn for myself or made a pattern for myself for some time (no time), and now that I’m older and have these “kimono” arms, I want to make something for myself that fits properly.
My bust is small, my upper back is broad, and under my armpit I hollow out to just about my mid section, where my dimensions then increase to ample hips. The flesh of my arms hangs down from where my arms meet my torso, about 2″. If I make something that fits around the armsceye well, it’s far too tight around my upper bicep and down to my elbow. If I drop the armsceye down lower so that I clear the hanging flesh, the sleeve fits more nicely, but now there’s not a good fit under my armpit and it loosens up my bust area. And sometimes this makes the fit across my mid-back tighter as well.
I think I’ll need a dress form with arms, or I’ll need to find someone who is willing to drape me, in order to create a sloper that will get this right for me. But if anyone knows what else I can try on my own, I’d appreciate the advice.