Help! I’m trying to customize a jeans pattern — like ready to wear. I made a “muslin” using inexpensive corduroy. I’ve almost got the perfect fit, but I have “horizontal pleats” running from the lower front crotch area (just below the fly) over to the side seams. (You know, the pants are baggy there. On my kids, I would tell them they had “droopy drawers!”)
I think I need to shorten the front crotch. Does that sound right?
Thank you.
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It sounds right to me. Pin out the amount that is pleating on the crotch seam, measure from the fold to the pin, and shorten the front crotch by double that amount (because the fabric is folded). You may want to adjust your "muslin" by picking out the crotch and inner leg seams a bit, and sewing on your new stitching line. (You can always draw it on with a vanishing marker or chalk.) Try them on again to be sure the adjustment is perfect before you alter your pattern permanently and cut your final pair out.
Let us know how it goes.
Sandy
Thank you!
"Pin out the amount that is pleating on the crotch seam, measure from the fold to the pin, and shorten the front crotch by double that amount (because the fabric is folded). "
Did it work? rjf
sorry, I haven't gotten back to that project. I was frustrated --- and spring is coming, so I started working on shorts. I'll let you know shortly how the crotch adjustment works.
Thanks.
The other problem could be that the front seam is too slanted. Try straightening out center from seam to be parallel to grainline. In jeans they use this slanted front as a giant dart. If you are not flat in the stomach it is not flattering. and creates extra fullness below tummy.
The proper way to shorten the crotch, the method that tailors use is the following:
when you have the pants on, pinch the seat fabric horizontally at the seat of your pants until a comfortable fit is established. Pin the amount that you've pinched. Measure the total amount of fabric that was pinned, this is the amount of fabric that will be removed from the inner back thigh of the pant. Open the inner leg seam from the crotch to the knee, mark the back leg seam with the identified excess of fabric, taper the back inner leg to the normal seam at the knee.
I would also suggest reading the article "Everyone Can Have Jeans That Fit" in the Feb/March 2004 issue of Threads.
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