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Cupping under on skirt front

MMsewing | Posted in Fitting on

I have been sewing for years as most of you, but have never encountered this problem.  I made a demin skirt – pretty plain – with darts in the front and back and she tells me it cups under her belly in the front.  The back is fine. I suggested just pleats but that met with a cry! I took that as a no.  I am thinking it is in the cut.  Any ideas on how to fix?

Thanks in advance!

Replies

  1. SewTruTerry | | #1

    Can you give a better idea what the problem is?  I don't know what you mean by cupping.  Do you mean the band is rolling?  Or is the material perhaps pulling in a way that forms a cup near the darts?  Sorry need more info.

  2. msm | | #2

    yes, i think you are right about it being in the cut.
    if the cupping is like a pooching out (pardon my technical jargon, LOL), then there's probably too much width from the cupping on up; maybe tapering the sides in towards the waist would help. maybe the darts are too deep (not too long, but take in too much fabric.)

    if it's a shallow dipping cupping, like it could hold marbles, then maybe there's too much fabric vertically up to the waist and it's being pushed down, formng a kind of fold.

    ps- denim is a bulky, unforgiving fabric. could you run up a quick copy of the pattern you used on som scrap medium-weight fabric? it would be interesting to compare how they fit her; maybe the pattern wasn't a particularly good one for denim.



    Edited 2/24/2005 3:50 pm ET by MSM

    1. Marion6422 | | #3

      My guess is that it is too long at the center front above the hips.  Try pinning in a horizontal fold at center front right under the waistband and tapering it to nothing toward the sides.  If that works, you need to scoop out the skirt front by that amount before attaching the waistband.

      1. MMsewing | | #5

        Thanks for your suggestion. I will try it this weekend (I have printed it!) I am so sure it is the fabric and the pattern is REALLY simple but the cut just does not fit her right.  Thanks again!

        1. mainestitcher | | #6

          Another suggestion: if the skirt is pulling in under her tummy, then perhaps she needs more ease there. That would be a more tactful way of saying,"It's not big enough."

          Next time you notice a protruding tummy, try this:
          Measure her hips a second time, but have her hold a ruler against the fullest part of her front abdomen, straight up-and-down, right angle to the floor. Her tummy poochiness is likely at a higher elevation than her hips. Take her hip measurement OVER this ruler. (There will be a gap between the ruler and her body where you take the hip measure, 7-9" below her waist.) It will add an inch or two to her hip measurement. The skirt is already made, right? If it is as you describe, your only option is to let out the hips as much as possible. Just trying to envision this in my head: Starting with nothing at the seam at the fullest point of her tummy, taper the seam out as you stitch down to the "cupping " part, and taper back to nothing 6 or 7" down from that.If you were absurdly clever, you left wide seam allowances at the skirt sides. If you're a mere mortal like the rest of us...
          Luck! C

          1. MMsewing | | #7

            Thanks, Carol and I do already have it made, but a few other suggestions have given me a few ideas of just how to fix this.  As far as the side seams, yes I felt them maybe not a full inch but I have some room, except that the skirt is big anyway! That helps.  I will probably be making the adjustment at the center front under the waistband.  The real problem is that this is my sister who lives in SC and I live in Indy!  But we did some "pinching" over the phone yesterday and I think I can fix it!  I am printing all these suggestions for future use, so I do appreciate your input!!!!

            Here goes! 

    2. MMsewing | | #4

      Thanks - I have printed your suggestion and will try it this weekend.  She doesn't have a particularly big tummy, but enough to make the front of the skirt not hang correctly. Thanks again!

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