cut on the bias
I am looking at a Vogue pattern and i see that the jacket it cut on the bias. Is there any reason that i can’t cut it on the straight???? I don’t see why they have cut it on the bias, but I am sure there is a reason. I am using a small wool check. Or a hounds tooth check.
cutting on the bias will allow for more movement with the fabric. When fabric is cut on the bias it has more stretch, if you cut it on the straight of grain there will be no "give" to the fabric so your jacket may not fit as nicely.
It may be cut on the bias for looks or there might be fitting involved. The only way to know for sure is to measure the dimensions of the pattern and compare it to either your measurements + ease or to a pattern that fits appropriately. Then you'll know if you can cut it on the straight grain.
Also, sometimes darts can be eliminated when cutting on the bias. You may wish to do a quick test of the main pieces in muslin or other scrap fabric to make sure it will still fit you if cut on the straight.
Sandy garments cut on the cross hve a lovely drape nd it maybe that that is what attracted you to the pattern and that if you dont cut it on the cross you will end up with a quite different jacket.
Frequently pattern pieces for bias shapes are cut wider that 'normal', because when bias hangs out, it grows in length, and narrows out, more or less depending on the weave of the fabric.
Especially with a suit, I would recommend AGAINST cutting on straight grain if the pattern is on bias. With the designer patterns, more pre-testing of a completely constructed model is done. The pattern company knows the pattern will work when cut according to their instructions - if you change it without making a muslin test garment first, you can have an unpleasant surprise.
Kay in LA
Thanks Kak , that makes the most sence of all the messages.
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