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sewlady | Posted in Fitting on

Dart end should be at 1 inch from the apex.  Mine goes to the apex.  If I make it shorter it bulge and if it’s longer to the apex, I do not like the look.  The other problem I have, it slightly cups under the dart between apex and side seam.  My bra is 44B and I have a round bust.

I worked several hours to get those problems solves without success. Any suggestion to have a better fit?



  1. SewNancy | | #1

    Make sure that you have the bust point correctly positioned. Also, are you really a 44B So many women wear the wrong bra size. How much is the difference between your upper bust measurement and the full bust? If it is more than 2" you are more than a B cup in which case you need to buy a pattern by upper bust measurement and do an FBA. If your dart is to high it will definitely affect drape.

  2. MaryinColorado | | #2

    I have only used this once so far but it was extremely helpful.  I bought it from Clotilde on line, it is #112000 at $9.95.  Shape- A- Dart.  It fits patterns to your cupsize and has illustrated  instructions and a clear plastic guide with all the markings on it.  Hope this is helpful.  The package doesn't say the manufacturer but there is a notation regarding a book "Altering Patterns to Fit YOU" by Sarah J Doyle.  3412 Holt Circle, Pennsacola, Fl.  32526 (800-883-2348) so she may have info on it or be the person applying for the patent..  MaryL

  3. suesew | | #3

    Remember dart seams do not have to be sewn absolutely straight. You might benefit from sewing it in a more concave fashion, allowing more room for a rounded breast.

  4. poo | | #4

    darts do not have to be "one inch" from the bust point. For larger busts, the dart end will be farther away from the bust point (and it will be a larger dart uptake) than for a smaller dart/bust. Also for a heavier/stiffer fabric (such as a canvas or tapastry for a vest) the dart should end even further away from the bust. This allows the stiffer drape of the fabric (stiffened even more with the seam and extra layers of fabric in the dart) to have room to then drape over the bust point. (I hope this is clear as mud).

    Play with some fabric of different weights and you will see what I'm talking about when you bring the dart point closer to the bust point. Try this with larger and smaller dart uptakes (you can just fold the fabric into a dart) and larger and smaller "breast mounds".

    The other thing you can do is rotate the dart to a different position, sometimes what doesn't look good with a side dart will look better as a french dart. or perhaps split the dart into 2 french darts, that way there is less point at the end of either dart.


    1. sewlady | | #5

      Thanks to everybody.  I will continue to play with the darts and the pattern.

      1. stitchintime | | #6

        I'm also having a problen with darts on a top that I'm making and I posted a new discussion because I didn't see this one. Becky (aka rlk777) just suggested I do a search on old discussions for darts and I found it to be extremely helpful. You might want to check it out. Some of the replies give good detailed information.

      2. user-167104 | | #7

        also, you do not want to reinforce (reverse stitch) the dart. Tie it off. That makes the tip much smoother too.


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