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Darts on a sloper

enidshapiro | Posted in General Discussion on

I’m making a sloper based on my measurements.  There is a dart at the shoulder on the front, and a dart at the shoulder at the back.  Are those two darts supposed to match up?  Or does it not matter, because it is a sloper. 

Replies

  1. FitnessNut | | #1

    The short answer to your question is that yes, the darts should match up.

    In the pattermaking classes I took at college, we also had a sloper with darts from the shoulder. They should be placed in the centre of the shoulder seam. Some slopers have a bit of ease on the back shoulder seam, so it might not appear as if they match at first glance.

    Good luck with your sloper. Let us know how it all turns out.

    Sandy

    1. enidshapiro | | #2

      Thank you for your quick answer.  Does that mean if I ease it in correctly, then the darts should match?  And if they don't, does it really matter? 

      1. FitnessNut | | #3

        Yes, if you ease it correctly, the darts should match. If they don't, it doesn't really matter unless you are making a garment using those darts as design lines - either the darts themselves or converted into a princess seam, for example. In those cases, you would absolutely want the seams to line up.

        Sandy

        1. enidshapiro | | #4

          Thank you so much!  I'm going to put the sloper together, hopefully over this weekend.  In this particular method, doing a pants sloper depends on the darts that were used on the blouse sloper.  So I'm going to be doing the pants sloper next, if all goes well with the blouse. 

          I'll let you know how it all goes. 

          1. FitnessNut | | #5

            You may have posted the answer to this question elsewhere....if so, I'm sorry about the repetition. What sloper method are you using? From a book or a class? I'm surprised about the pants being dependent on the bodice. Usually the darts on the skirt correspond to those on the bodice, but pants are generally an independent creature.

            After years of making custom garments, and therefore slopers, for others, its about time I made one for myself. (My wardrobe is pathetic....jeans and t-shirts for the most part.) I have an unbelievable collection of top-quality fabric just waiting for me to cut into....But I am dreading trying to fit that sloper on myself. My husband is good, but not that good, and I'm picky ;-)

            Sandy

          2. enidshapiro | | #6

            I'm using a book by a Fashion Institute of Technology professor.  I think it's Kopf (I'm at the office, not at home. )  Then I got a more advanced book that manipulates darts, turns things into circle skirts, you name it.  I can't imagine being able to teach myself that.  It's been hard enough for me to do a sloper. 

            I know what you mean about not having clothes.  I want to do a sloper/dress and make five of the same simple dresses in different prints - I'm short, so shapes have to be simple. 

          3. enidshapiro | | #7

            P. S. Did you ever think of getting a dress form made?  It helps alot.

          4. FitnessNut | | #8

            I made a dress form of myself in a class over twenty years ago (papier maché type) and I'm sorry to say that I don't look quite the same any longer (real sorry!). I have a professional mannequin and a set of pads from Fabulous Fit that I use for clients and I could use it to help fit myself too. Its just that it is difficult to replicate all of my own body's curves, lumps, bumps etc. on any mannequin. I guess I just need to take the time to do it as best I can and depend on hubby to do the rest.

          5. SewNancy | | #9

            Dear Sandy,

            I just made my third duct tape dress form.  I lost 75 lbs and had made one in the middle of my weight loss and yesterday I made a new one.  This one came out the best of all.  At 53 I too have lumps and bumps.  I had used the Threads instructions for the first two and one for my daughter, but I came across new instructions on line that had some very helpful tips.  Site:  http://www.leanna.com  Look for duct tape double.  I only printed out the freebie instructions as we had done this before and I had a stand.  It really works.  But do it as tight as possible and then don't overstuff.  Use your basic measurements to check the stuffing.  Also, use cross marks horizontally where you are going to cut it so that you can line it up later.

            Nancy

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