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Decrease sleeve-cap height

Mome | Posted in Patterns on

I’m looking for some help please. I want to decrease the cap height on a sleve pattern of a blouse so that I can have a greater range of motion. I don’t actually need to drop the armscye. I’m looking for a balanced sleve without ease. I would like the sleve to fit into the armscye so that I can easily stretch my arms above my head without the entire blouse lifting. I look forward to hearing any thoughts offered. Thank you, Mome

Replies

  1. lwsews | | #1

    I am making a jacket for a friend and found I needed to raise the armscye so the whole jacket didn't pull up when her arm was raised.  I raise the armscye by about an inch which required the sleeve cap to be lowered to fit the sleeve.  I used the same ratio to lower the sleeve head but found this was too much.  Does anybody know if there is some "formula" to do this? 

  2. mem | | #2

    This leads to another question which has beenalso posed by the other person who answered your question. You definitely need to raise the armhole as you need the hole in the garment to be flush against the arm and the underarm in particular. I would love to know what to do to the sleeve so that it will fit into the new armhole

  3. Teaf5 | | #3

    I agree with the others that you should raise the armscye to allow more movement. On the sleeve, you need to also lengthen the underarm seam by the same amount so that both the sleeve and the garment rise to the same point under the arm.

    When you do this, the sleeve cap becomes proportionately shorter because the curve of the sleeve pattern doesn't dip as low anymore. Then measure around the seamline of both the armscye and the sleeve after you've done the alteration to determine if they match.

    If they don't, then post again, and I'll try to remember where I have this information!

    1. Mome | | #4

      Thank you for your thoughts. If you have ####source for this process I would be very grateful to peruse through it. For countless years I have wanted to design my own sleeves or alter pre-made patterns in a way that suites my active life style that includes Yoga. I'm pursuing a good fit with maximum ability for movement. Again, thank you, Mome

      1. Teaf5 | | #6

        I thought I had a copy of a sleeve-cap adjustment article, but I don't. Sorry!

        Edited 6/8/2006 5:14 pm ET by Teaf5

  4. sian | | #5

    Hy mome

    hy I'm from Russell Island Redlands Australia

    I'am new to this though I've been reading threads for years.
    I have done this to a traditional sleeve. It was also in an
    old threads magazine . I'll have a look for the instructions
    on the weekend and get back to you.
    I did pattern drafting at night school years ago and when I get time
    I dabble in it.

  5. SewNancy | | #7

    Actually, the highercap has more range of motion. You want a higher, closer fit under the arm not less.
    Nancy

  6. sian | | #8

    The threads article on sleeve finesse was in april 1990 no 28
    It explains all you need to know about decreasing the sleeve cap.

    1. Mome | | #11

      Thank you, I will check this article out. I appreciate your thoughtfullness. Aloha, Mome

  7. sian | | #9

    The article you wanton sleeves is in the book " fitting your figure" from threads
    This is the link to buying it on amazon.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/156158083X/102-7408751-2617700?v=glance&n=283155

    1. Mome | | #10

      thank you so much for taking the time to refer me to 'Fittinng your Figure'. I just ordered it from amazon. I appreciate your thoughtfullness. Aloha, Mome

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