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Double Cloth Construction Techniques

Koushite | Posted in Fabric and Trim on

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I really like this fabric but how do you sew with it? It doesn’t appear to require interfacing or facings. How does it appear so finished? Do you just serge the outer edge of collars, etc?

Replies

  1. Lucky_Weddigen | | #1

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    You can serge or bind the edges but this fabric is wonderful for making reversible clothing. Check out Vogue's pattern catalogue, particularly the designer section. A number of the patterns (especially Geoffrey Beene, Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass) are described as being self-lined. The original garment the pattern was adapted from is often double cloth. Clare Schafer's Fabric Guide has good information on working with double cloth. It is split, one layer is sewn together by machine and then the second layer is folded and hand stitched. Not difficult work but it does take time, lots of time! The finished product is beautiful and a pleasure to wear. Curved edges (i.e. necklines, lapels) do need to be stabelized. I cut a piece of 1/4" twill tape exactly the length of the curve (including seam allowance) measured from the paper pattern piece. Tack the twill tape ends between the split layers of the double cloth just inside the seam line. Then turn the seam allowances to the inside and blind stitch together. The stay tape will support the curved edge.

    1. Koushite | | #2

      *Thanks for your informative reply -- Sorry it took so long to offer it. I'll try to apply the techniques you describe.While I have you, perhaps you could give me your opinion about some coating I'm trying to choose between. One company's offering a fabric made up of 74%wool/20%cashmere/6%nylon for $30 per yard. The other is offering 75%wool/25%cashere for approx. $25 per yard. The weight on both is 18 oz. I'm leaning toward the one with the nylon, thinking is might provide strength, but then again the piece with the higher quantity of cashmere sounds like it should be better quality. I really need an outside opinion asap, as I'm sure it will sell out soon. What do you think. Thanks for your reply.Koushite

      1. karen_morris_ | | #3

        *I think that in general, nylon is added to wool to strengthen it, and this tends to be done on lower-quality wools, perhaps in fabric where the wool fibers are shorter and less stable. Without seeing the two fabrics (you can tell a lot about a wool's quality by the gloss, fluidity, and general appearance of the fabric), I would lean toward the one without the nylon. Yes, the cashmere fiber is more delicate, but a 75% wool fabric is going to be very durable, anyway.

        1. Liz_Kemble | | #4

          *Koushite, I would definitely get my hands on the fabric before ordering either one. Preferably a large piece of fabric that you can drape and play with. A little swatch wouldn't help much. And get the one that feels, looks, and drapes best!

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