Drafting, Altering or Grading Patterns
about a vintage coat pattern I bought which was two sizes too big
I have tried to grade a vintage coat pattern recently. Actually I paid a more schooled seamstress to do it and wasn’t satisfied with the results- princess seams not quite fitting and collar not fitting the neck edge. It led me to read a lot about ease, grading, and alterations, but the project stalled there.
My question is how do you know when grading is the issue, or whether you alter? I am assuming you can’t just take the pattern to the xerox machine and reduce it a small amount.
From the muslin I have attempted the upper sleeve seemed a bit tight for every day use, so I have have to decide whether to stay true to the historical style or redesign for what I need.
It is a cute 1949ish swing coat with hidden pocket princess seams -no front buttons(or closure) and cuffs on the bottom of the sleeves. The vintage Threads issue renewed interest in this project, but I am not sure how to approach it.