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Draping Back Bodice

Marla | Posted in General Discussion on

I’m trying to teach myself draping.  I’m all right on the front bodice.  But the back bodice is giving me trouble. 

When I pin along the should blade level, should there be slight ripples for the ease? 

First I pinned the center back at neck, then at shoulder blade level.  Then pinned crossmark at the ridge near the armplate.  This left alot of ease when I pinned along the shoulder blade line.  Is this the way it should be?

 

Replies

  1. Monrea | | #1

    a fitted basic bodice (block) has a shoulder dart. That is the rippling ease you see. Most of the time commercial patterns don't have the shoulder dart, but instead transfer it out somewhere else.
    Ok, I just looked in my new 4th edition of the Armstrong drafting book (it's been 10 years since design school, so I need the refresher) and she says it should be 3" long, with 1/4" legs on each side (that makes it a total of 1/2" wide dart).
    Hope this helps you out. Pin in the dart, mark it, put it on your basic block, and then transfer it out or around when you make your new pattern!

    1. Marla | | #2

      Thanks for your help.  I'll give it a try.

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