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Eliminating seams from cuff/collar edges

Saragrace | Posted in The Archives on

Hi, I am looking for an article in an issue which probably comes from at least 4 or 5 years ago.  It showed how to transfer seams from the edges of cuffs and collars to the underside thus eliminating bulk from the edges.  I can’t find it in my back issues.


Thanks for your help


Saragrace Knauf


  1. Jean | | #1

    Umm I think that was a Nancy Zeiman thing.

  2. SewTruTerry | | #2

    I think Jean is right that it was a Nancy Zeiman thing but if I remember correctly what you do is take the pattern piece and make a copy of the pattern and split one of them down the middle so that you have the seam allowance in the middle of the lower collar piece then pin or tape the pieces to the upper collar as they would be sewn eliminating the seam allowance on the ends of the collar.  The resulting collar pattern then is stitched end to end and then stitch the outer seam and then turn and press as usual before sewing it to the shirt or jacket.  Hope this helps.

    1. Saragrace | | #3

      I tried looking up Nancy Zieman in the archives without success.  I was going to sit down today and give it whirl myself.  What I remember is that this process could be applied to anything that had a corner or point on it.  So for instance, a cuff which was made by sewing two identincal rectangles together ended up have no seams on the edges and the seamline got transfered to the underside of the cuff with the seamline bisecting the corner....

      Thanks for responding.  I sure hope someone eventaully can point me to the article.  I don't suppose the staff would respond to such a request?


      1. GinnaS | | #4

        Louise Cutting of Cutting Line Designs has taught this at seminars and it is included in one of the booklets she wrote & sells.  I don't remember which one tho'.  Her web site is fabriccollections.com


        Edited 7/16/2004 1:49 pm ET by GINNAS

  3. ElonaM | | #5

    It might also have been Judy Barlup of "Unique Techniques."

  4. Raewyn | | #6

    You might want to try this link for eliminating the bulk from the centre front seams of collars. 


    I think the cuff situation could use exactly the same technique - can sort of picture it, but hard to describe without getting VERY wordy. 

    Good luck.

    1. Jean | | #7

      That's the one I was thinking of.  Good job.

    2. Saragrace | | #10

      Darn, close but not the one I was hoping for. Sorry my response is so late. For some reason I did not get the notification for your reply.


  5. SewNancy | | #8

    Look for  an article by Judy Burlap on making a welt pocket and there was a letter to the editor agout doing this to a waistband.  It transfers the seam away fron the end. 


    1. Saragrace | | #9

      Thanks Nancy, I have found the article (64) on the welts pocket, but my personal library doesn't go back that far....will have to go to the public library I am afraid! Any suggestion on searching for the letters one online...I can't seem to find the other article that way.


      1. SewNancy | | #11

        Go to her website and look at what she has available. I know that she has a video and probably a book.  I used her method of making a jacket  placket from another Threads article and it was absolutely perfect and easy to follow. 


        1. Saragrace | | #12

          Nancy, did I miss something? Whose website are you refering to? I googled for Judy Burlap but got nothing. Did you mean someone else?


          1. SewNancy | | #13

            Yes, I did mean Judy Burlap.  I have not been to her website in a while, maybe it is no longer around?  I'll see if I can find a reference.


          2. Elisabeth | | #14

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