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eye lashes

clairezbo | Posted in General Discussion on

Why is my serger making eye lashes when I try to do a rolled hem???? I am planing a skirt with the serger rolled seams on the outside,(in silk), and I don’t want the eye lashes. I am using wooly nylon in the upper looper, What should I use for the silk or organdy????? or silky like material?????


  1. MaryinColorado | | #1

    First, I would try wrapping the edges in water soluble stabilizer if the fabric is washable.  You could try using rayon embroidery thread but that might get expensive.   Some wovens are harder to get right than others.

    3 thread rolled edge:  tensions: needle 3, UL4, LL6 you can try using wooly nylon in both loopers, if you only have one spool you could try hand winding it onto a bobbin in place of 1 spool.  Here's the settings I use.

    2 thread rolled edge:  needle 4, LL5

    Also is the stitch length on 1.0, the Differential on 0.8, the stitch width 5.0?

    You also could try pressing under the edge first, then roll hemming it.

    1. User avater
      clairezbo | | #2

      Thanks I will try the tension you suggested. I also will try turning under before serging. I like that idea

      1. User avater
        blondie2sew | | #3

        I know this sounds nieve but what do you exactly mean by eyelashes?I think I have an idea but I would love to know exactly what you mean..Thanks

        1. MaryinColorado | | #4

          Rolled hems on the serger sometimes get "eyelashes" or "pokies", it's serger lingo for ravelling on loosewovens...it's all part of the learning curve with em but some fabrics really don't want to cooperate.

          1. User avater
            blondie2sew | | #5

            Ok if I understand correctly..They are the fabric that doesn't go under the rolled hem? it likes skips some to have the fabric poke out? I get that all the time and never knew it was called eyelashes!!

          2. MaryinColorado | | #6

            Yes, that's it.  I forgot, if you widen the stitch width it should correct pokies according to Linda Lee Vivian's book Make Friends With Your Serger.  She has a nice website too, http://www.lindaleeoriginals.com.  She also says to decrease the tension in the upper looper on the three thread rolled hem to allow the wooly nylon to fluff out.  Hope this helps!  Mary


          3. User avater
            clairezbo | | #7

            How do I widen the stitch . I have it set at 1 1/2. Is that as wide as it gets????

          4. MaryinColorado | | #8

            Do you have a manual for your serger?  I just know how to set my Huskylock.  Sorry.  Mary

          5. User avater
            clairezbo | | #9

            I didn't get a manual with my Serger, I have a Bernette 234. I have had it for well over 10 years, and I am still trying new ideas, and allways trying to make things better. When i bought this machine, the lady at the Fabric store, where I bought it. (Fabric Place in Woburn Ma), was very knowlegeable about the machine. But of course the store has stopped selling machines now, so I have been winging it. I think the stitch with is down under the presser foot, that usually is set at 2 1/2?????

          6. MaryinColorado | | #10

            Yes, near the cutter as the stitch width is the distance between the needles and the knife blade.  Normally it is narrower for light fabrics and wider for heavy like denim or ones that ravel alot.  As you widen the stitch, the thread has farther to go so you may need to loosen the looper tension accordingly.   Also you might increase Needle tension here. 

            If you get thread hanging off the edge when you narrow the cutting width, you have to increase the looper tension. Hope this helps.

            With sergers, it is all about getting a balanced stitch.  Each machine is vastly different.  While you are putting all this effort into figuring out the best settings for a stitch, maybe you can get a spiral notebook and write them down for future reference.  Then you would have a manual specific to your machine handy whenever you're ready to serge. 

            I have "cheat sheets" for all my machines or I probably wouldn't have the patience to sew or serge.   Even the manuals are just outlines to go by. 

          7. User avater
            clairezbo | | #11

            Keeping a notebook is a very good idea, one that I have been going to do for years. It certinaly would make life easier. I am not very organized, but very seldom make the same mistake twice. It's just as you get older, the memory isn't as good. I am starting my notebook today. (the challange will be to find the notebook when I need it). LOL

          8. MaryinColorado | | #12

            I think I will get some large recipe cards to replace the notebooks.  They woudn't take up as much space.  Did that rolled hem work out for you?  Mary

          9. User avater
            clairezbo | | #13

            I can't thank you enough, what time you saved me. The tension, and needle numbers were perfect. The rolled hem looks wonderful. I put the seams on the outside of the skirt and rolled them. This one is the prototype. Now I know to make the seams even wider to really show off the roll. This is the first time after all my experiments, that the roll looks professional, NO EYELASHES!!!!!! Thanks again. You Gals are terrific.  The idea of the cards is also terrific. That way you could use the tabs. Love it!!!!!

          10. MaryinColorado | | #14

            I am so glad it turned out well.  Maybe you could post a photo?  I haven't posted any yet myself, but hope to in the near future. 

          11. User avater
            clairezbo | | #18

            If i can figure out how to do it I will. LOL

    2. Jane63 | | #15

      that is a great idea maryinColarado. I have some fabric that I wanted to finish for a scarf and it just wouldn't overlock. Can't wait to try this out.

      1. MaryinColorado | | #16

        I love wearing scarves.  I always get lots of compliments on them.  They help hide my tummy too!  I saw one on the cover of one of my Threads magazines that I really want to try.  Unfortunately I have to drive 50 miles to get that issue from my DDIL!  It is issue 119.  Mary

        1. Jane63 | | #17

          What is a DDIL? I will look up that scarf although I think I can remember it as a really spectacular scarf on the cover. Thanks

          1. MaryinColorado | | #19

            Oh sorry, dear daughter in law.  I was being lazy.  She got her first sewing machine this year so I gave her most my Threads collection to help her learn techniques and to inspire her.  She is really enjoying them, if she decides not to keep them, she will give them back to me.

            I think some scarves would be nice to work on for small projects.  I am always doing several techniques at once.  I am working on an embroidered quilt as my long term project.  I am not really a quilter so I have to break it up.  Mary

          2. Jane63 | | #20

            This chat room stuff is getting addictive. I received my first copy of Sew Stylish today. I thought it was a book and have since subscribed and so will receive it for two years. It looks like it is geared more to the beginner sewer but I am an addict and am sure I will find something in it. On the back is a lovely scarf and I think it is the one you were telling me about. (Haven't had time to check yet). Thank you for replying to my question. I am just beginning to make a quilt using scraps. Each square is sewn with batting in it and then all the squares are over sewn together. I have made 20 squares and discussed it with a lady in a shop and will now pull those squares apart (I hate doing that) and will use just one colour on the back. I was worried that it was too fussy and this was suggested as being one way of helping it look more co-ordinated. I chose this quilting system so that I can take it with me when we go on holiday which we do fairly often. Previously I have made two baby quilts. Holidaying is lovely but I do like to have something to do.

          3. MaryinColorado | | #21

            Yes, this is addictive, I agree!  I want to try that method of quilting.  I saw it on Sewing With Nancy on PBS.  I think the one I saw is called The Cotton Method, the lady's name was Betty Cotton.  I think it is great that you can take it with you.

            If you like your quilt the way it is I wouldn't change it.  "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder".  Have you seen some of those wild crazy quilts?  I think they are pretty cool.  

            I have embroidered over twenty white blocks for my Mother's quilt/throw and decided more of them should have blue backgrounds so am doing more.  They are three different sizes so more editing is to come before I figure out how to pull it all together.  I am having fun with it but am concerned how it will look once I am finished.  The rest of the fabric is pink and most of the embroidery is pink flowers and ribbons, mostly roses.  Very feminine, like her.

          4. Jane63 | | #22

            Your quilt sounds very beautiful, Maryin. It is too late to keep my quilt as I pulled the 20 squares to bits last night. I am not too worried as I really like the bright blue fabric I now have for the back. I was going to machine embroider some of the squares on the top but I now think I will machine embroider one square in every nine on the back. A virtually plain fabric is too hard to resist.

          5. MaryinColorado | | #23

            You have put alot of work into your quilt.  It sounds like you are designing your quilt the same way I am.  We are having the same issues as we go along.  Some people do all the designing before they touch thier fabric.  I almost never do.  It is more of an ongoing process through an entire project for me. 

            I think I finally have a vision for this quilt so now I am ready to start cutting strips to go around each block.  Some of the embroidered blocks might go into another project and I may have to make some more for the quilt.  Maybe I should name it "Mother's Day Mystery Quilt".  Mary

          6. User avater
            Becky-book | | #24

            Your Mother's Day Mystery Quilt sounds quite lovely!  Please do post a photo before you give it to her! 

            My 'greed glands' get to working every time I read about an embroidery project... I do not have an embroidery machine; do not want to buy a cheap one just to say I have one, can't afford the $$$$ to get a top of the line one.  also too lazy just now to do a lot of research on a purchase I may not be able to make.  Contentment is indeed a 'rare jewel'.


          7. MaryinColorado | | #25

            Thank You for the encouragement!  Not being a quilter, I am procrastinating too much with the designing.  I think I am just too nervouse that it won't look pretty when completed. 

            I don't use the embroidery machine as much as i "should" considering the cost.  There are so many other fun techniques to do.  I really enjoy thread painting and free motion embroidery which can be done with most sewing machines.  Bobbinwork is one of my favorites, with Perle Crown Rayon and other large threads.  It feels more creative to me and you get one of a kind results. 

            I know I would use the embroidery machine alot more if I was able to digitize my own sketches and drawings.  I will daydream about it some more and try to keep those "greed glands" at bay a while longer. 

            It's hard enough to spend the money on the car that I really do need right now!


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