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Conversational Threads

Fabric type or technique ?

Beavette | Posted in Fabric and Trim on

I came across this photo in a magazine and was very curious about the fabric. I am a designer and would love to know if this is a new kind of fabric that is somehow gathered like a smocking technique or if it is just pleated/gathered and stitched in place for a tight gather look. Because of the tight fit, I was wondering if it would have to have a stretch to it.
Just curious and inquiring minds want to know…….


  1. User avater
    ThreadKoe | | #1

    From the differing directon of the gathers in the different colours, I suspect that this is a fabric that is shirred for a special effect. Threads had an article(Nov. 2002 Issue #97) on how to do this type of pleating/shirring that was reprised in the SewStylish issue (Tubular Pleating) on embellishments. A coutour garment would fit like a glove. This appears to be one. Cathy

  2. User avater
    CostumerVal | | #2

    I gotta tell ya, this one stumps me.  The warp thread in the curved insert is curving!  I weave and I can't tell you how to pull that one off.  I mean, inserts aren't difficult, and these inserts are clearly done in conjunction with the bust dart.  But looking closely, I also see that the fabric seams to curve around her bust line in the center front with no dart control.  My first impression was creative photo editing.  I don't see any surface texture, so I don't think that it's sheared.  If you use two different yarns in the weft of the fabric, you can achieve a similar result, ie:  linen and silk.   I guess if you wove a tapestry piece with the weft forming a steep curve and then cut the curve as an insert you could achieve that look.   I still think there's a good amount of photo editing.


  3. BernaWeaves | | #3

    Evangeline Lily?  This is a couture dress.  I wouldn't be surprised if every tiny pleat was tacked in place on the backside to a formfitting bustier.


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