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cynthia2 | Posted in General Discussion on

Hi everyone,

It seems I saw something recently in Threads about how to keep facings from pulling up at the jacket hem.  I can’t seem to find it again, though.  Does anyone remember where this appeared or, perhaps, how to solve the problem?  It seems no matter how carefully I cut and stitch the jacket front and facing, I frequently have the problem of the facing pulling the jacket front up a bit.

Many thanks,



  1. jjgg | | #1

    The reason teh jacket hem pulls up at the facing edge is because the lining/facing is too short. Its a tad bit shorter than the front of the jacket and that causes the pull. Add an extra bit of length to the area and this should solve your problem.

    1. cynthia2 | | #2

      Thanks. I thought that must be the problem, but wasn't sure.

      1. mem | | #5

        I was taught to sew the facing up a little from the edge of the hem . This problem comes about due to "Turn of the cloth" I always sew the bottom of the facing onto the jacket hem by hand and do so only after i have got it right on my manequin. Instead of the folded facing butting up against the folde hem ease it up just a little so that there is a tiny bit of exetra in the facing length. Then stitch this with slip stitches.

  2. Josefly | | #3

    I'm not sure if you mean that the front edge seam draws up when you apply the facing, making the front shorter at the front edge, or if the facing is somehow causing the jacket front to roll under at the hem.

    If it's the first, I've had the same problem, but I read something about this recently. The seam line joining jacket fronts to facings usually goes through several layers, including the interfacings and perhaps underlining, and so the stitch length needs to be set longer than other seams, since the thread has to go through more layers. If the stitch length is not lengthened enough, the seam will draw up, shortening the front edge, and sometimes making the two fronts slightly different in length.

    Also, if the facing is interfaced, the interfacing must be pre-shrunk. If not, it can shrink when steam-pressed, or sometimes even when dry pressed, and that can shorten the facing, either before or after the facing is joined to the jacket front.

    Hope this helps.

    1. cynthia2 | | #4

      Thanks Josefly.  The problem I'm having is that the facing is causing the front to roll under.  I'm going to take the front and the facing apart and try cutting the front just a bit shorter (1/8") than the facing and see if that helps.



      1. solosmocker | | #6

        I had this problem consistently until I saw on a Sewing with Nancy to lengthen the stitch when sewing the bodice and facing together.It has made all the difference and I have not had this problem since. I stitch most of the garment with a 2.5 stitch and the facing to bodice seam with a 3.0 stitch.

        1. cynthia2 | | #7

          Thanks.  I'll try lengthening my stitch length next time.  Thanks also to MEM for the advise to hand-sew the bottom of the jacket front and facing. 

          I've found that I've had to really work with the princess seams on this jacket as well.  The fabric is stretching a bit if I'm not very careful in my handling.  I didn't interface it since it's a dark green laser-cut wool and I wanted the rust-colored lining that I've used to show through the cuts.

          The long wrap skirt I made with this first worked beautifully, so I probably should have stayed with something less structured than a princess-seamed jacket.

        2. SewNancy | | #8

          I have never seen this advice before, but I am in the process of making a jacket and a coat, so I will definitely remember this tip. Thanks.

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