Hi I am new to this and am experimenting with making up my own swimming tee patterns. I made a close fitting body shape block in metric pattern cutting by winifred aldrich. Seems to fit ok. But I want to add darts to it to fit better in the bust and to add fullness and design lines to it. I have downloaded some information from the web. My question is how do I find the bust point. Is the bust point on the same level as the underarm? I know this is a silly question but just need some help.
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Replies
To find the bust point, measure down from the shoulder (where the shoulder seam would be) to the point of the bust. Now measure across the body from one bust point to the other. Mark both of these on your pattern and then use a square to line them up. Wear a good bra for this.
Keep in mind that the bust point is not where the dart ends, usually a dart ends 1 to 1 1/2" from the point. On a swimsuit you might want to refine this measurement. Also keep in mind that a dart doesn't have to come from the sideseam or hem, it can originate anywhere from the edge of the sloper.
Are you asking how to find your bust point or the bust point on the block?
To determine your bust point, measure from the neck point, at the side of your neck, down to where you stick out the most. The bust point is not necessarily the nipple. Then measure from your center front to where you determined that point. I use stick-on paper dots to mark. Do this with a straight ruler so that you get a horizontal measure. You need help with these measurement because it is almost impossible to get it accurately doing it yourself. Then transfer these measurements to your pattern. You really need these measurements before you draft a pattern. Did you drape the block you are using? If so, why didn't the drape give you a dart?
If my "help" is no help, just ignore me. I may not be understanding what you are asking.
On commercial patterns, the bust point is very high, nearly at the bottom of the armscye, but that hasn't been realistic for me ever, not even in my teens! The other poster has already clearly explained how to find your own, real bust point and the fact that darts end about 1-1.5" away from it (further for full busts).
Once you've done that, you can determine where to add a dart to your pattern. Two things to remember are: darts usually look better pointing across or up to the bust, rather than down to it, and you need to add extra width to the side seam to allow enough seam allowance for the wings of the dart after it is folded and stitched. Tracing a dart off another pattern and copying it to your side seam is an easy guide.
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