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Fit pants with yoke seams at crotch

kjp | Posted in Fitting on

All you fit experts:

I am IN LOVE with a pair of pants in the June Burda World of Fashion.  They are #126 A-C for those of you who get the publication.  For those who don’t they are a beautifully cut, stretch, fitted pair of straight leg pants – invisible zip at the side and a stunning yoke cut of three pieces for each front and back.  (center yoke and two triangular side insets below pointing in toward center. 

My problem:  I am too tall!  Burda fit me great with simple changes.  I have to add 3/4″ to both front and back for crotch depth AND about 1/2 – 3/4″ to the BACK crotch length, which I usually do by slitting the pattern from the crotch to the side seam and then true my seams after.  I’m not really sure how to tackle these changes with all the seams on these pants.  I don’t want to mess with the lines of the yoke, but I’m pretty sure I will have to.  Any thoughts?  Has anyone seen these pants??

thanks!  Karin

 

Replies

  1. HeartFire | | #1

    Karin,
    cut out all the pattern peices without seam allowances,(you can add the seam allowances at the sides) tape them together so you have the complete front and back pattern peices, then make the alterations you need to the overall fit, then redraw the lines of the yoke to straighten out any that you messed with in the alterations. MAKE SURE at the side seams that the lines match up. then cut apart on the new lines you drew for the yoke peices , add seam allowances and good luck, they are cute pants.
    Judy

    1. kjp | | #4

      thanks, Judy!  I think that will work well.  I'm going to compare it to my sloper.  I am looking forward to making these!  Karin

  2. LiseLaure | | #2

    Hello Karin,

    I noticed those pants. Being short-legged, they wouldn't be flattering to me but I am sure they will suit wonderfully somebody tall (and not too wide at the hips).

    Here is what I would do if I were you. Pants #106 in Burda WOF of March 2005 have the same characteristics: same side length and leg width at hemline, no darts, a contour waistband. I would alter this pattern so that it fits me. Then I would measure the yoke and side insets, draft them on my altered pattern, and cut this one.

    Good luck!

    Lise-Laure

    1. kjp | | #3

      Thanks, I'll try that!  I think I'll compare the pieces to my contoured waist sloper that has a dart in front & back and see how it compares.  It was made from Burda patterns, so it should be similar.  I didn't think of redrawing the pieces after changing the pattern.  It seems so simple.  K

      By the way, I don't have small hips, but I do think that the seaming will make my figure appear slimmer.  I noticed also that this particular pattern goes up to a 46 rather than the usual 44. 

      karin

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