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fitting

Melody_R | Posted in The Archives on

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I have been sewing for a number of years but have not gotten comfortable with sewing for myself. My problem is fitting. I follow the suggestions
for choosing the correct pattern size but it seems they never fit correctly. I have read a numnber of fitting books and am beginning to feel that I’m just not going to master this fitting thing. Does anyone have any suggestions for fitting resources. I’ve just heard about Burda. Is this pattern company better than the Big 4 in terms of fit?

I am new to this message board so I hope I’ve done this right.

Replies

  1. Chris_Beare | | #1

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    I really like Burda patterns. I find them a more accurate fit to my actual body measurements than any of the 'big 4' as you call them although they do seem to be suited to some people more than others as I have a friend who says that they don't suit her shape. (she is a larger size lady). The patterns are designed very much to the body measurements that they give for each size so if you find a list of measurements close to your own for a given size, you should get a good fit. I love the fit of their pants patterns in particular. I live in a small town in Australia so the only access I have to Burda patterns is in the monthly Burda magazine available at the local newsagent - and then I have to be very quick to get a copy!
    I am also a very new user (first time) to this but felt compelled to answer this one so hope it works.

    1. Chris_Beare | | #2

      *Melody,I forgot to add - in my haste to see if this worked- that I also use a dressform (stretched to my own measurements) to place the paper pattern on to check for fit before I go anywhere near the fabric with scissors.

      1. Karen_Vesk | | #3

        *Hi Melody! Without seeing you standing there, it's hard to say which pattern company best fits you... and there ARE differences. If you are at the end of your tether, and if you really love to sew for yourself, maybe now is the time to enlist the help of a professional for a few hours... and get them to help you fit a basic garment.

        1. Ghillie_C | | #4

          *Hello Melody,It appears to me what you really need is a 'fitting friend'. It appears you sew for other people, perhaps one of them would help you out. They do not have to be experts, just be a bit patient and alter the pattern or muslin as you ask them to while you are wearing it so that you can get the fit you want by trial and error. Husbands can be trained, but usually seem to be scared of sticking pins in themselves...Alternatively perhaps you could find a class, not necessarily one which you absolutely need, but which would put you in touch with the right kind of people.I think everyone on these websites has agreed that one of the best books on fitting is Palmer and Alto's Fit for Real People. Easily obtainable from Amazon etc. The style is a bit dramatic for a reserved Englishwoman like me, but the information is all there.Happy pinning!Ghillie

          1. Gwen_Frazier | | #5

            *Melody, I love Burda Patterns. The only pattern company of the "Big 4" that I have found remotely close to fitting without major adjustments is McCalls and let's face it, the patterns that are out now, you can practically draft yourself.You may want to give Roberta Carr's "Achieving the Perfit Fit" video a look see. She explains the whole Burda process and unlocks many many questions. Roberta also has her own website. http://www.fabriccarr.com.Good luck

          2. Monica_Baldwin | | #6

            *HELP! It's swimsuit season already and I can't find a new suit that looks OK! :-( I have a suit I've loved but it's stretched out from use; it's a maillot shape with a halter soft-cup bra top. My comment or question is: I want to duplicate this swimsuit I already own--are there any tips on how to do this? Or might there be a source for a halter pattern? Is there perhaps anyone out there who has experience copying swimwear and can do so for a reasonable price? Pleeese write back,Gratefully, Monica

          3. Julia_Fletcher | | #7

            *Monica - have you tried the Kwik-Sew catalog? You can view many of their patterns on their web site which is http://www.kwiksew.com - go to the partial catalog, select "Misses" then find the swimwear category. They don't sell online but have lots of stockists including http://www.sewsassy.com which does mail order and all the patterns are 20% off. Sewsassy also sell the complete line of Stretch & Sew patterns and all the fabrics, linings, soft cup bras etc that you might need. NAYY but their service is quick and excellent.Hope that helps.Julia

          4. Cecelia_Bryan | | #8

            *Hi. I was reading that last bit of advice on enlisting a professional - how do you go about finding one? There is a fabric store here in the D.C. area that has a million different classes in all areas of sewing and one of them is a "total fit" class - the most expensive, of course. ugh. It is 245 (I seem to recall), and I want to know if that is the going rate or what? I REALLY want to take a class in fitting and adjusting patterns because that is what discourages sewing for myself - and now it is beginning to discourage me from sewing for my children as they are "blossoming", if you know what I mean....Thanks,Cecelia

          5. Chris_Beare | | #9

            *Hi Monica,I started with making swimsuits for my daughter by unpicking an old (stretched)& outgrown swimsuit (not a maillot style - a catsuit style)- a tedious task but worth it. I pinned it onto paper & traced around. After adding a little extra (for her growth), I made up a practice one. It worked perfectly with only a few minor adjustments made to the next one. I suggest practicing on cheap swimsuit fabric first time round, make your adjustments (mainly taking in side seams due to the stretched 'old' fabric)& then go from there. Before I unpicked, I measured the elastic for the armholes as well as the legs therefore eliminating the guess work in those areas. This answer is probably obvious but thought I'd add my 2 cents worth! By the way, check out the 'Stretch & Sew' pattern site - they have great fitting patterns - I rather nervously ordered one (I live in Australia - they are in America)- and the fit of their All American Swimsuit pattern was unbelievable. Their service is also unbelievable too - only 6 days from ordering to my mailbox in Australia.Chris

          6. heather_blair | | #10

            *If you can get your hands on the Dress Fitting book by Natalie Bray, you will be way ahead of the game of fitting. Ms Bray explains so well and clearly all the aspects of fitting, you get the feeling she is there with you or you are taking a class with her. The book includes numerous illustrations of draping the examples or points on an illustrated dress form so that you can also see exactly what happens to the grain of cloth in the process. In my opinion, this is a "Must Have" book. Simply said, she tells/shows you what fitting is, how and why it happens and how to solve it. You will need no other book. Sounds like I am convinced eh! I can draft patterns but had no idea how to solve my fitting problems until I read her book, now my fears and insecurities about fitting have vanished. Please note that I have all the other books presently available on the market as well.Hope you find it....keep an eye out on Ebay too.

          7. Janet_Cornebise | | #11

            *Hi, I've been sewing for myself for years but have recently run into some fitting problems I can't solve. I've taken up weight lifting which has significantly changed my shape, particularly in the upper body. I can't figure out how to adjust patterns to fit the increase in my shoulders, upper arms, armhole and across the bust. I have a very narrow waist and rib cage (compared to my shoulders and bust.)I've got Nancy Ziemitz's fitting book but she doesn't seem to address these issues. If I but a pattern big enough for my shoulders, it is enormous (usually around 10 inches )everywhere else.Any thoughts?Janet

          8. Janet_Cornebise | | #12

            *Hi, Sorry to repost this. I didn't realize that I had not updated my emai l address. Any responses people have sent I've been unable to check. Mea culpa. I've been sewing for myself for years but have recently run into some fitting problems I can't solve. I've taken up weight lifting which has significantly changed my shape, particularly in the upper body. I can't figure out how to adjust patterns to fit the increase in my shoulders, upper arms, armhole and across the bust. I have a very narrow waist and rib cage (compared to my shoulders and bust.) I've got Nancy Ziemitz's fitting book but she doesn't seem to address these issues. If I but a pattern big enough for my shoulders, it is enormous (usually around 10 inches )everywhere else. Any thoughts? Janet

          9. Debbie_Michels | | #13

            *Janet, Unfortunatly unless you have some education in flat pattern design, you are going to have to take the long and patient way though this if you want to do it yourself. Another idea is to look at Unique Patterns. A wonderful company created by three talented women who wanted more. Look into http://www.uniquepatterns.com.Their product is not inexpensive, but affordable for the most who want and need patterns that fit. Good luck. Debbie

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