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FITTING A TOP

Patricia | Posted in General Discussion on

Hello I am a new member writing from London, UK.  I don’t know anyone living locally who sews and it will be nice to have chats/exchange of ideas.

Wonder if anyone has an idea why, when I make tops the front hem comes up and sticks out slightly.  I tried bringing the shoulder seam forward, which entailed making the back shoulder seam longer and then, of course, it meant altering the sleeve head – all a bit complicated for me!  Could it be that the bust area needs to be larger?  I have just read about patterns being made for a B cup and I am a D.

Many thanks for reading this and hope someone can help.

Replies

  1. cafms | | #1

    Patricia,

    You do need to increase the bust area.  I draw a line on  the pattern from the center front to the side seam at the bust point line and through the dart on its center line.   If there is no dart this will create a dart.  Add one half inch for each cup size above B.  This is added into the dart so you have more room in the dart.  You should probably check the position of the bust point to be sure it is in the right postion for you.  Do this first then add to the dart.  You might want to trace off your pattern first and then cut the tracing.  Or make a sample top, cut it through the bust points and darts.   Spread apart and add fabric to see if the front hangs better.   Measure the amount of fabric you added or how much the pattern spread over the bust.  Add that amount to your pattern.  You 'll probably need to add that much to each new pattern also.

    Fantastic Fit For Every Body by Gale Grigg Hazen has some good information on making things fit in her chapter on working with patters.  Also Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Step-By-Step has some good information on moving a bust point.  She also has a method for adapting a t-shirt with no dart ao there is more room for a larger cup size.   I hope this is helpful.

    1. Patricia | | #5

      Thank you so much for taking the trouble to explain in such detail and I like the sound of Sandra Betzina's book, especially as it explains how to alter the T shirt fit.  I have a pair of pants to finish and a couple of skirts.  Once that's done I will try out your methods, which sound excellent.

      Best wishes,

      Pat

  2. mem | | #2

    yes I think t is the full bust adjustment and maybe you could also try wearing a minimizer bra which reduces the amount the boob pushes out .Perhaps you need to also add a little along the front center hem between the bust points . this will give you an even hem when the top is on but will look a little curved when it is off.

    1. SewNancy | | #3

      In an article in Threads on the perfect T shirt, Marcy Tilton adds to the leghnth to accomodate the fuller bust and adds to the center front bottom to curve back into the side seams.
      Nancy

      1. Patricia | | #6

        Thanks for your contribution - very helpful.  I think I have the threads article on the T shirt so I'll look it up.

        Best wishes,

        Pat

    2. Patricia | | #4

      Thanks very much for your suggestions.  I'm making pants at the moment and have a couple of skirts lined up to do next.  However, after that I will devote some time to try and get this little problem sorted once and for all.   First  I'm going on holiday to Italy tomorrow for a week so no sewing.  Dare I say that I'm looking forward to it but will be glad to get back to the sewing machine!

      Regards,

      Pat

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