Replies

1. 
   woodruff | Apr 14, 2006 03:49am | #1

   One way to go at it is to pin or baste the bodice together, put it on yourself or the victim, and then re-pin the shoulder seam, making it narrower as you get closer to the neck, to allow for the thickness there. Measure how much extra is needed, and add that amount to any collars or facings that go with the pattern.

   Fitting and Pattern Alteration, by Judith Rasband, is a very good book on diagnosing fitting problems and alterations, with probably the largest number of illustrative sketches of any fitting book.

2. 
   Teaf5 | Apr 15, 2006 12:53am | #2

   In my case, I just use the seam line as the cutting line at the neckline, adjusting any facings or the collar to fit. This makes the neckline 5/8" wider all around and keeps the garment from choking me while not adding fullness in the upper chest.