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fitting full bust

K_Honeycutt | Posted in The Archives on

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I need help fitting myself through the bust while keeping neck lines and armholes in their proper positions. There is a ten inch difference in my high bust and full bust measurements, so I seem to end up with garments that are to tight in the bust, but fit everywhere else, or they fit in the bust and are huge everywhere else. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have books on fitting, but none deal with alterations of more than 4 or 5 inches and when I’ve tried to use those methods, I end up with funny looking results.

Replies

  1. carrie | | #1

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    Have you tried the slide and pivot method of altering? Nancy Zieman's book Fitting Finesse shows how to do this method, and it is the best one I've found. I sew for myself, having a very full bust, plus have had a sewing business for four years now. This method gives me the best results out of all I've tried.

    1. Bill_Stewart | | #2

      *K H, the only way I know to adjust that much difference is by trial and error with a dummy top. You will need to make up a throw-away top to at least the waistline, or preferably below. You will need a friend to help you. With the top on you, split the top over the fullest part of the bust on each side and up to, but not through, the center of the shoulder seam, and down to, but not through the waistline, following the under bust dart line. Insert scrap fabric to each side equally to gain the girth you need. It will naturally taper to nothing at the shoulder and waist. Pin securely in place. Once the girth is comfortable, then split across the bustline and to, but not through the side seams, following the side dart line. Again, insert scrap fabric to let the waistline settle into its natural position, and pin securely in place. Consult a good book on adjustments or Threads (they had an article with pictures on doing this). Transfer the amounts to a trial pattern and remake the dummy and, so forth, to perfect the fit. I had to do this 3 times to perfect a pattern for a Client, in her best custom made foundation, to fit a very full bustline that the crest was 1" below her natural waist. It is tedious I know, but can be done. Best of Luck. Bill

      1. Martha_McKeon | | #3

        *KH - Bill's instructions are the way to go. The pivot and slide method simply will not accomodate such a large difference between high and full bust for you.

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