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Fitting Pants

Polly1 | Posted in Fitting on

Here’s a call for help! I have been trying to fit a pair of pants for a friend.  I am basically happy with the fit everywhere except in the crotch area.  There is enough material around the body (the rise), but it bunches (horizontally–in vertical folds) in the crotch area (both front and back).  What do I do to fix that? Thanks, Polly


  1. SewNancy | | #1

    Vertical fold usually mean that it is too big.  Try taking in the inseam front and back  grading down to the knee.  I find that I can fit this area better iif I leave 1 1/2" of crotch seam unsewn front and back and this gives room to take in or let out inseams.



  2. FitnessNut | | #2

    Your description of the folds is difficult to understand. Are the folds laying across the body, giving horizontal lines when you stand back and look at the pants? Or are the folds running up and down the body? Each of these indicates a different problem and therefore a different solution.


    1. Polly1 | | #5

      The folds are running up and down the body, radiating upward from the crotch area. Polly

  3. kjp | | #3

    Polly, I've been working on perfecting my own pants fit for years (every time I get it, my shape changes ! )  Most recently, I attended a free seminar with Peggy Sagers.  It was incredibly eye opening!  She has a video for sale called Pants Fitting and Drafting available on her web site, http://www.silhouettepatterns.com.  This won't help with an already constructed pair of pants, but if you're working on a muslin, I highly recommend it.  I've also heard good things about Sandra Betsina's method.  Karin

  4. kayl | | #4

    Horizontal folds in the crotch area could be several things...

    are the folds above or below the crotchline?

    If they're below the crotchline (in the upper thigh), I'd bet

    they're really stress wrinkles... the upper thigh is too tight --

    let out the side seams and maybe the inseam in the upper thigh.

    Play till the grainline's straight.

    If they're above the crotchline, check to see if they are stress

    wrinkles. If so, you may need to let out the side seams or widen

    the U of the crotch (increase front and back crotch extensions).

    In this instance, sight unseen, I'd try letting out the side

    seam first. If the wrinkles remain, restitch the side seam as

    it was and open the crotch seam (left to right, not front to back)

    and see what happens. If it opens into a football-shape, you

    can salvage this pair with a crotch gusset and increase the crotch

    extensions on the next pants. Don't forget to check the grainlines,

    too... deeper bodies front to back may not only need a broader U

    shape front to back, but may also need a bit more at the side seams.

    Play till the grainline is straight.

    If the wrinkles are above the crotchline, and are sags, not stress

    pulls, then the body of the pants is too long for the body of the

    wearer -- just fold out the extra length in the pattern. Salvage

    this pair of pants by amputating the extra length at the waistline

    and redoing the darts and side seam shaping from high hip to waist.

    My favorite fitting book: Leichty, Pottberg and Rasband's

    Fitting and Pattern Alteration, a multi-method approach. Excellent

    diagrams, good how to fix it instructions.


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