I read an article in Threads a couple of years ago. It was something like the Zen of sewing. I can’t find it now but something that stuck in my mind about one of the tips is that the sleeve should not be more than 1 and 1/4 inches larger than the armscye of the jacket. Since that time I have faithfully measured the pattern pieces to make sure that the sleeve arm hole is no larger than the above amount to the armscye of the jacket. So far that advice has been very helpful to me.
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Replies
Grand of you to post your info on sleeves. It should prove beneficial to many. Do you recall if it was directed to both the single cut as well, as the 2 piece sleeve? By 2 piece, I mean the style that is on the more tailored jackets.
Personally, setting sleeves is a step w/o much difficulty for me. What is a major Waterloo for some sewists is less so for others.
Me
I have used it on either type of sleeve. For me that 1 1/4 inch difference is the magic number for setting in sleeves. Before I cut out the pattern I've learned to measure the finished circumference of the armscye and sleeve. If the sleeve is too large I alter the sleeve cap with a horizontal fold that removes excess evenly across the sleeve cap and then true up the pattern lines. American patterns are so poorly drafted today, Vogue being the most disappointing, that I try to save myself from as much frustration as possible if I'm going to invest time and money in a project. Hope this works for you.
Thank you for the reply.
Quality in so much is iffy these days. It's disappointing. Perhaps for me because I recall earlier days when it was paramount in most every way.
>> Sigh <<
Me
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