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Fitting the Princess Seam

siama63 | Posted in Fitting on

To all , I am trying to fit a princess pattern to my bust ,there is excess  fabric  in  bust seam The front piece is to much into the {side front} area . My question is should the seams intersect through  the apex or is is it supposed  to be about 1/2 in. beside fullest part of the bust { apex .} { Nipple}  this is a princess that goes into the armhole not the one that runs up thru middle of the shoulder . Please advice if anyone can help./ Thank you  


  1. Gloriasews | | #1

    I'm sorry, but I can't read your post, as the colour is too faint against the white background.  Could you please repeat it in a darker colour or black?  Thanks.


    1. rekha | | #11

      If you have difficulty in reading other colour font, just left click the text it will come up as a contrasting colour

      1. Gloriasews | | #14

        I just tried it.  Left click only brought up a menu - but I clicked on the message & scrolled - voila!  Text turned blue.  You are absolutely right - it worked.  I was wondering how you did it!  (I only have trouble reading if it is pastel colour print on white or white print on bright pastel backgrounds - other colours are fine.  Aging eyes, I guess).  I learned something new today - yay!  Thanks so much!


        1. rekha | | #15

          My description was not as good as yours.

          Pleased now you can use this on any microsoft  page, i.e. excel, word etc.

          1. Gloriasews | | #17

            I'll definitely use it on any page that I have trouble reading - it will cut the annoyance & frustration drastically.  Wish I knew this ages ago.  Thanks again!


  2. NY2NZ | | #2


    To all , I am trying to fit a princess pattern to my bust ,there is excess  fabric  in  bust seam The front piece is to much into the {side front} area . My question is should the seams intersect through  the apex or is is it supposed  to be about 1/2 in. beside fullest part of the bust { apex .} { Nipple}  this is a princess that goes into the armhole not the one that runs up thru middle of the shoulder . Please advice if anyone can help./ Thank you  

    It sounds to me like you cut the front part way too big and need to bring that seam over your bust.  I rarely do armhole princess as it doesn't work for me.

    I'm sure someone else, now that they can read this, can help you better though.


    1. siama63 | | #3

      Hi , I'm curious as to the problems that you have had with the princess  style . Siama

      1. NY2NZ | | #4

        My issues are about having a big bust, that sits up high.   I found that armhole princess was always difficult to fit, so I prefer shoulder princess (maybe its laziness on my part?)....and the s/p line is very flattering to my body.

        Have you the Threads issue on the S princess dart?  I have to go looking through my magazines to find it, but it is an excellent resource.  I can look tomorrow as it is getting late here, and get back to you OK?


        1. siama63 | | #5

          Hi , i read something in the Singer book" Perfect Fit "  series that i think will help me . There  were pictures on how to adjust for   a high  large bust . If you could tell me how to post the picture and article i will try to post it . I don't know if publishers permission is needed for that . Siama

          1. NY2NZ | | #6

            I used to have that book, now that I've found a review for it on Pattern Review:


            Its a good book to have, good luck with the princess seams!

  3. jjgg | | #7

    A princess seam can go directly over the bust point or somewhere off to the side. To get a better fit of course, directly over the bust point is better, but 1/2 inch to the side is not much of an issue. The sea should just NEVER go past the bustpoint towards the center front.I don't understand what your problem is, where is the excess fabric? is the bust point on the pattern not at the right height for you? is there too much fabric in the center front piece? side front piece? Most patterns are made for a B cup, do you need to adjust for that?

    1. siama63 | | #9

      To jj , the pattern fr. piece and the side front piece when eased and sewn together   do not run thru  the middle of my breast . the seam is adjacent to the middle of my  apex . it sets about 1/2 inch beside the apex ,  maybe this is where it is supposed to be ? i am a c cup . i do not have excess fabric in the seam . what i think is that that front piece should be trimmed off a little and the side piece made larger in that area . ? i have only one previous princess jacket .  however it runs through the shoulder and should go thru the center of bust .i did have a fit problem there too  but by removing excess fabric i achieved a good fit . Thank you for your reply

      1. rekha | | #12

        It's difficult to help you if you cannot answer the kind of questions jigg has put to you.

        Better still if you can send in photos of the profile

        1. siama63 | | #13

          To rekha , i have explained  I  thought in my last post . Really the question is just where is the seam supposed to go on {any} person in this type of a  princess  style garment  . i think the answer given by a previous poster was helpful . Thank you

      2. jjgg | | #16

        The princess seam can go directly over the bust point, or to the side of it. If it bothers you being 1/2 inch to the side, then you can move it so it sits on the bust point.

  4. User avater
    Becky-book | | #8

    Is your difficulty with the FIT of the pattern on your body, or the DRAFTING of the pattern?A princess seam will have an area that needs to be eased together, and might look like it won't fit together at first.Fitting? the seam should run close to (or at) the bust point.Becky

    1. siama63 | | #10

      hi Becky , I believe it is a pattern problem but only because of my body making it more pronounced > this seam goes up into the armseye  so it is quite a curve  I think i will probably need to redraw the front and side front . Thank you for your help.

      1. NY2NZ | | #18


        This is the article that I was  referring to in an earlier post:

        The S-Dart AdvantageBy Pamela PtakA custom-shaped bust dart gives the most flattering fitJuly 2003 (Issue # 107)

        Since I've read this, this is exactly what I do.  It works a charm.

        Good Luck

        1. siama63 | | #19

          Thank you for your research ,Siama

  5. From my Stash.... | | #20

    I agree with your assessment and the problem can most likely be found in the pattern drafting for a B cup rather than your C. I have the same problem these days.

    The best thing to do is quickly cut out a muslin with an extra wide margin in the side seams. Then baste the princess seams together and just make a tuck in one side of the centre piece that is wide enough to bring the apex of the pattern and into the right position for you.  Pin out this fold or this dart and mark it wth a red or blue pen.  Then pin the new side seams and mark them (you were right when you said take it off one and add it to the other).

    Measure the dimensions of both adjustments and add these to your pattern and you should get the fit you are looking for.  Once you've got this, you can transfer these to other patterns.

    Hope this helps,


    1. siama63 | | #21

      Thank you for your nicely detailed instructions . This has been  a   nuisance  pattern . simp/4302 , it is now out of print .  Siama

  6. PhoenixSun | | #22

    Hi, this is my very first post, so hopefully I do well with the explanation. In my experience with armhole princess, I find it easiest to build the ease into the bust area with basting stitches before trying to sew it together. I start by pinning the notches together and then figuring out how much ease was built into the pattern. If you did not purchase the pattern and you draped it yourself, I recommend re-draping the pattern b/c something may have gone wrong. If you drafted your own pattern, I suggest double and triple checking your measurements. If you've transfered it from a basic bodice sloper, make sure your measurements are correct as well, and make sure the sloper itself fits properly. Hope that helps you... Alycia

  7. User avater
    artfulenterprises | | #23

    To answer your specific question as to where does the seam line go...if you are C cup with a narrow upper chest (just above the bust), it is easier to fit yourself by placing the seam line right thru the apex. If there is excess between the lower curve of the armscye and the point where the princess line intersects the armhole, you can transfer that excess into the princess line seam. Just be sure to leave yourself enough ease in that area to insert a couple of fingers. This insures ease of wearing. (Be sure to adjust your sleeve if necessary.) Make sure the fullest point of the curve of the side front piece is placed at the apex. You should have about 1/8 to 1/4" ease in that area. (Although there are those who advocate no ease...that the two seams fit exactly, I'm not in that camp.) If the garment is a jacket you may want to consider the fit with a garment underneath. That's a whole different aspect. If all the excess fabric is below the armscye curve, it sounds as though that whole piece is too large and you may need to cut the next size smaller. Or, adjust your muslin until it looks comfortable and trim. Not being able to see your muslin, it's hard to tell what's going on.

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