Hi All:
I am trying to teach myself how to fit patterns better–beyond simply shortening hems or increasing seams. I purchased a Burda pattern for a jacket with dolman sleeves (to try to copy a ready to wear item). I made a muslin in the size closest to my measurements. In trying it on, I know I need to make the shoulder area smaller (I do have narrow shoulders). The back and front sections also have side panels and the sleeve is two-pieced. Can I just shorten the top sections of each of these pattern pieces? I’m pretty confused. I would appreciate any help you can give me.
Thanks!
Replies
well if it was me I would mark points above the notches on the sleeve and bodice pieces which correspond to where you want to take out the fabric and then draw a line across each piece making sure that they all match up tom each other when you lay the pattern out. This all needs to be done in some tissue paper not on the original pattern . then pinch out the amount you want and tissue fit again . I would also consider taking in a little out of the two piece sleeve seam. basically you need to keep you grain lines true and match all the notches agian after taking out what you need to.
If you have narrow shoulders think about using a shoulder pad as especially in a Dolman sleeve you will accentuate the narrowness and slope of you shoulders with out them.You dont need to look like an escapee from the " DYnasty" set though and you would use a pad for a raglan sleeve .
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