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Five-rectangle jacket Threads 137

starzoe | Posted in General Discussion on

OK, noticed this and thought “what fun” but am now making a mockup and I find that the instructions for the sleeve are confusing me. The sleeve is 15 x 10 inches, yet we are supposed to match to the marking 8.5″ down from the seam on the shoulder. It comes up short. And why at #7 we are asked to “stop 5/8″ from the shoulder end”? It does add to press the seam allowanceS open, so perhaps (as I mention below), we have to cut 4, not 2.

The illustration clearly shows a seam from the shoulder to cuff of sleeve, that’s not mentioned. And shouldn’t there be 4 15 x 10 sleeve pieces cut, not only two? That would allow for a seam at the shoulder and one on the underside. That would mean that the 15″ is the length and the 10 x 2 is the circumference. The photo of the flat garment has peculiarly-looking tiny sleeves which would hinder movement.

I can certainly manage to make a simple sleeve for this jacket without the directions, but if they are wrong it may save someone else some frustration. Reading this through, I think I have found the answer, we cut 4 sleeve pieces, not two. I would like some opinions on this, please.


  1. Josefly | | #1

    This is confusing to me, too, especially since the marking is supposed to be 8.5 inches "from the shoulder seam", not from the top edge. Did you notice that the shoulder seam allowance, joining front to back at shoulder, is 1.5 inches? This shoulder seam is 14.5 inches long from the neckline to where the sleeve is attached, so the shoulder seam drops down on the arm quite a distance before the sleeve is actually attached - I think that is the seam you're seeing in the photo, not a seam in the sleeve itself. If you cut two pieces for each sleeve, that would make the sleeve about 28.5 inches around (15 plus 15 minus 2.5 inches for the four seam allowances), and the sleeve doesn't look anywhere near that big, so I don't think this is a two piece sleeve. Not sure either why you stop the sleeve underarm seam 5/8 inch from the shoulder seam edge - to make it easier to insert into the opening? But mostly, I can't figure out that 8.5 inch marking. Time to get out the paper towels and see how it all fits together. :>)Edited 5/15/2008 7:06 pm ET by Josefly

    Edited 5/15/2008 7:07 pm ET by Josefly

    1. starzoe | | #2

      I am doing this mockup out of paper (in centimeters) and it should work. If you sew the 15" long edges together, and place the seam at the shoulder, it will fit into the two 8.5" spaces. We DO need to cut 4 sleeve pieces.

      1. Josefly | | #3

        Starzoe, I'm still having trouble with this, and I would love it if you can find the error in my thinking. I played with paper towels last night. I was trying to make the one-piece sleeve fit into the opening, but the sleeve was too small for the opening. So, maybe you're right about the 2-piece sleeve, but now I'm trying to figure out how your method works. If you sew the long sides of the 15" x 10" sleeve pieces together, using 5/8" seam allowances, you get a tube with circumference equal to 17.5" (10" + 10" - 2.5" for 4 seam allowances). The opening for the sleeve will be 17 inches (8.5 x 2 = 17). In this case the sleeve is too large for the opening, by 1/2 inch. What am I missing? The numbers just don't seem to add up either way. Looking at the numbers in my trial - Using 5/8 inch sa's, I sewed the 10" sides together, making a tube 13.75" in circumference (15" - 1.25" = 13.75"). I tried to match the sleeve seam to the dot as instruction #8 says to do. The sleeve was too small for the opening, which is 8.5 x 2 = 17 inches.I wondered if the 8.5" marking should be from the top edge of the front and back rectangles, instead of from the shoulder seam. That would put the marking 7 inches below the shoulder seam. Then, if only 1/2 inch seam allowances were used, the sleeve would fit. The opening would be 14 inches, and the sleeve would be 14 inches. But this isn't what the instructions say.I still don't get it. :>)

        Edited 5/16/2008 9:27 am ET by Josefly

        1. starzoe | | #4

          With two pieces of 10 x 15", sew the long edges together with 5/8" seam. Place the seam at the shoulder so that it runs down the top of the arm as is shown in the photos. We are working flat here.
          Place body and sleeve, right sides together (working flat), sew a 5/8" seam, centering the sleeve seam onto the shoulder. This will allow the sleeve to fit into the 8.5" on each side of the shoulder seam plus a seam allowance to sew up the side seams to the underarm and down the sleeve to the cuff. If there is a minor discrepancy, it won't make a difference. For a very loose fitting garment in this size 18" is not too large or too small, but just about right for a sleeve opening. We may never find out the why for that "stop 5/8" at the shoulder end".After all this kafuffle I have lost interest in this pattern, besides the weather has turned summery for our long weekend. I still would like to ask Threads about this but can't find an address to send an email about pattern questions.

          1. Josefly | | #5

            I won't belabor the topic, with you, then. I think, though, I'll post a question to the editor in another thread.Hope your weekend is great.

            Edited 5/16/2008 6:16 pm ET by Josefly

          2. starzoe | | #6

            Oh good - have a nice weekend yourself, I'll watch for the posting.

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